Weather may have let Tour down but the crowds rose to occasion

From the early hours of the morning it was like a pilgrimage up Croagh Patrick. With the road cut off to traffic, cars were left in special parking in Laragh and most spectators set off on foot to find a spot along the four-mile climb.

The weather might have let it down but the crowds didn't. The Tour de France was given an Alpine welcome at the Wicklow Gap yesterday afternoon, as thousands turned out to watch the race pass through one of the most stunning stretches of road in the country.

This was a "category-three climb" in Tour de France terms and only those with vast stamina and enthusiasm made it closer to the top.

By noon the mountain was sprawled with spectators, many of whom were settled about half way up the twisting road with a bird's-eye view into the Glendalough valley below.

The gardai were out since dawn to keep the roads clear, but it was a party atmosphere which prevailed in every sense. Whole families had come along for a picnic and, despite the gale-force winds, they had come from far and wide.

Every European country was represented, the Americans were "loving it" and even Brazil had the flags out despite other interests nearer to France. Damien O Tuama had cycled from Dundrum with his cousin, Aidan, to take in the highlight of Stage 1.

Even with the great views all the way up, there was no doubt that the top was the place to be. This was where the "King of the Mountain" points went to the first rider over the summit and about 4,000 awaited the race arrival. Marked as the "Col de Wicklow Gap", this could have been anywhere along the Alps or Pyrenees.

About 30 bus coaches had transported some of the lucky ones up and waited in an impressive line to take them down again.

A single catering company was doing more business than ever before and the Dublin-Wicklow Mountain Rescue was out in full force to make sure nobody fell off.

"We've had a few minor incidents but everyone has made a safe trip so far," said rescue team member Ann Hegarty. "Some people decided to come across the mountains and that might be a bit risky."

Many of the top cyclist practise their aerodynamics in wind tunnels, although this was an even greater test. It was a little more than a summer breeze at the top and the banner signalling the summit actually blew away.

Nobody seemed to care and by the time the publicity motorcade arrived at 1.30 the mood just took off. Some of the more interesting parade cars were taking their time. One freak gust of wind and they could have rolled down.

Some people even tried to get a Mexican wave going all the way up the mountainside but that didn't get too far.

The mist and rain are nothing new to Tour mountain summits - it was under similar conditions that Stephen Roche won his first stage back in 1987.

It was another wait before, winding up the mountain side, the peloton appeared. Like a muti-coloured millipede, the incredible sight of 189 riders edged closer. Then the small breakaway bunch appeared and dashed over the peak at about 2.35 p.m., just 10 minutes behind schedule. The honour went to the Italian Stefano Zanini - first man over the top - and the hero for the day.

A little more than a minute later the bunch passed over. Chris Boardman, wearing the prized yellow jersey, was near the front with the race favourite, Jan Ullrich of Germany, content to sit in the middle.

Sweeping off down towards Blessington with their team cars for company, the riders might have been glad it was over but the spectators were not.

It took them all morning to get here and it would take all evening to get home. In a huge stream they headed back towards Laragh. Nobody knew for sure how many had made the trip up. One thing for certain, however, is that Wicklow Gap will hardly see the likes of this again.