Brian Beattie has just opened a new restaurant, Mange Tout, in the basement of 112 Lower Baggot Street.
Not only is it his third time to be working in this small room and kitchen, but of course he will be hoping to be the third in line to emulate the success of the two chefs he worked with here previously, Derry Clarke of L'Ecrivain, and Conrad Gallagher of Peacock Alley, both of whom have moved on from 112 to greater things.
A lunchtime meal with a friend showed Beattie has a good touch: seared beef with blue cheese and green leaves was an excellent starter, with lively, agrestic flavours, while a wanton ravioli of goats cheese, served with cucumber noodles and a little pesto, showed he likes the modern multicultural cooking style, and can handle it comfortably. Our main courses of pan-fried cod with a herb crust served with a cassoulet of white beans, and medallions of pork with apricot and excellent braise red cabbage, were both good, respectful dishes, accurately seasoned and flavoured.
Only an indifferent vanilla creme brulee let the side down, while a pear tarte tatin with cinnamon ice cream was good. Service was excellent, breads and coffee were good, and the set lunch, at £13.50 for three courses, is fine value.
I think Mange Tout has the potential to be an interesting location. It is still early days, and while the influences of Beattie's mentors are obvious, one senses a chef working towards his own subtle, individual style.
Mange Tout, 112 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01-6767866 Lunch Tue-Fri 12.30-2.45 p.m., dinner Tue-Sat 7-11 p.m.