HOME AND AWAY SURFER FERGAL SMITH: GAVIN CUMMISKEYtalks to Fergal Smith who is considered Ireland's leading competitive surfer

“Out here you’re on the edge of the surfing frontier. (There are) so much waves on this coastline to be discovered.”

– Greg Long, Big wave surfer talking about the west coast of Ireland

SURFING IS the source. All along the western seaboard, from Lahinch to Sligo and up to Bundoran there are beaches that are gems for the new breed of enthusiasts honing what is the most addictive of pursuits.

The steepest point of the surfing curve can be divided into structured competition or big wave surfing; Kelly Slater or Laird Hamilton being the poster boys in each camp.

Big wave surfing requires a jet-ski to tow some maniac onto a wave that usually cannot be touched by paddling out to sea. It is the conscious risk of one’s own life, requiring a particular mix of talent and bravery. “Aileen”, a giant wave just off the Cliffs of Moher, has placed Ireland firmly on the big wave map. Fergal Smith has his feet in both camps. Actually, Ferg Smith’s feet are constantly wet.

The 21-year-old is considered the leading competitive surfer around these parts (he is the national champion) and while he will be in Costa Rica next month to represent Ireland in the world championships, his pursuits around the blue planet are predominantly in search of the most intimidating of hollow, heavy waves.

“I was in Ireland all winter; didn’t go anywhere for the first time in years which says a lot I reckon. The waves were so good.”

His garbled tones are explained by his location at a remote outpost somewhere along the western Australian coastline. “Every summer I would compete for Ireland, up until now. I would go down to Spain, France, Portugal and all that. You are competing on waves against guys who live in those waters so they are better than you. It becomes a bit monotonous and there isn’t as much joy from it.

“You are following the heat criteria. It’s not surfing. I often wondered why I was even doing it but it was a good experience. You learn loads, meet lots of people and get to go to cool places.

“But amazing waves, like we have in Ireland, is much more interesting. You get to surf and have a lot of fun, also push yourself. I find that a lot more interesting. I . . .”

The line goes dead just as he is warming to the theme ensuring the question about his Great White Shark experience may never be asked (12 months ago a fortunate photographer snapped Smith gliding over a perfect wave with the silhouette of a monstrous shark running parallel).

We take a deep breath and re-dial the digits.

“Howya, yeah sorry lost you there. I’m on a hostel pay phone in western Australia, near Albany.”

I’m in an office in Dublin. Once the jealousy subsides I ask about the shark image that was circulated globally. Doing a good impression of a seal must pray on the mind after such an experience? “It was mad wasn’t it? But we were out there today and it is renowned for being a shark infested area. You always know there are fish around.

“It’s not like you are going to start freaking out about it, otherwise you wouldn’t be out there, would ya? I’ll be on the same wave tomorrow so we’ll see if I see him. It was weird that there was a photographer there or it would never have been recorded. I wouldn’t have noticed anyway. It probably happens all the time.”

Is there not a threat of attacks on surfers in that area? “They don’t tend to but there is actually a really high rate of attacks down there. I’ll be alright. Don’t worry about me.”

This guy is genuinely chilled. Life on a board will do that to you but Smith began life on his father’s organic farm outside Westport in “the middle of nowhere”.

“Because of the farm we couldn’t go anywhere during the summer so to get away we’d go down to Achill Island every weekend. Just a little retreat. That’s where we started surfing, at about 11. Me, my brother Kevin and my dad. Within a year I really started to get into it. As I got older I’d start getting buses to Sligo and Bundoran but it all started down in Achill Island. We never really had it on our doorstep. We were always a half-hour drive to the coast so it’s not as if I was born into surfing or anything, but we became addicted.

“We didn’t know surfing was popular until someone suggested I go to the Irish nationals when I was 14 and I noticed there were loads of other surfers. I didn’t win anything accept a few heats but I realised I could do it. Then I started to do all the contests. When I was 17 I got on the Irish team and you realise you can do it at that stage.”

Dropping out of school to turn pro was considered but instead the day his Leaving Certificate was completed he departed for Australia and a third level education in surfing.

His friend and fellow fearless soul Tom Lowe would be by his side today if not for a recently sustained dislocated shoulder after a torrid day under a collaped Aileen twig.

The triumvirate is completed by the magical photographer Mickey Smith. Together, with the help of energy drink sponsors Relentless, they rub shoulders with big wave surfing Goliaths.

“Yeah, we’re jostling, trying to get waves off some of the best surfers in the world. Who the hell am I to do that? So it is pretty heavy. You got to be quite confidant but there is a good vibe, yet it can be tricky as these are career making waves.”

Smith is well placed to comment on the explosion of surfing in Ireland. “It is a cool image. People have more time off, money and there are not that many things to do in Ireland accept get drunk on the weekend, so it’s a good activity.

“It’s really strange to think about it when five years ago people used to laugh at us. Take the piss out of us for surfing.”

He believes the obsession will recede and contests the theory that the next generation of Irish surfers can produce our own version of a Slater or a Mick Fanning. The consistency of wave, the weather and cold waters are natural hindrances.

“I’ve definitely seen a rise in good surfers but to come good a young Irish surfer will have to move (abroad) to compete. In Ireland you’ve got to be really dedicated to surf; willing to put in long hours and learn about the coastal seas and the weather. You don’t become good at it by being born into it. You got to have a lot of drive.”

What’s his favourite place to surf? “Dunno. I love surfing really hollow, heavy waves. They are my favourite and it is not that they get boring, but if you surf them every single day you nearly get sick of putting yourself on the line every day.

“You still need to have fun surfing. It depends on what mood you are in. Good waves, yeah, I like good waves.”

We all do. He just gets to see more than the rest of us.