THERE are survival rules for Catholics in Ballymena. You do not draw attention to your religion. You learn to move quickly and keep your head down.
It took 80 RUC Land Rovers to ensure that the parishioners of Our Lady's Church in Harryville made it safely to Saturday evening Mass. About 2,000 loyalists were at the bottom of the road, screaming sectarian abuse.
They have picketed Our Lady's for the past five months in protest at the blocking by nationalists of Orange Order marches in the neighbouring village of Dunloy.
A police cordon kept the protesters back from the church. But they sang long and loud to make their presence felt.
The Catholics passed swiftly. "We're being forced to enter our church like thieves in the night," said one.
The church was ablaze with colour. Yellow and white carnations on the altar shone in the candlelight. The pews were overflowing. About 400 people had turned out, 100 more than usual.
"We are here to show that we will not be bullied or intimidated," said an old man standing at the back.
Six p.m. Mass started five minutes early, and Father Eamon Cowan sped through the service. Winding, philosophical homilies are a luxury in Ballymena.
He read out a simple statement: "When any congregation gathers to worship, they stand on holy ground, the sacred ground of conscience, the place where God touches the hearts and lives of people.
"When people gather to worship, their right to be there is deeply sacred and demanding respect, a right safeguarded by the principle of civil and religious liberty.
"To disrupt or seek to intrude on any act of worship not only denies a basic human right but does violence to the right of God."
Father Cowan still wanted reconciliation. "We pray for the protesters. Lord hear us," he said.
"Lord graciously hear us," the congregation responded.
And then the church was filled with the voices of the protesters singing, "We are, We are, We are the Billy Boys," and boasting how they were up to their "necks in Fenian blood".
It was a freezing February night. But for the protesters it could easily have been the Twelfth of July. There were Union Jacks everywhere and blood and thunder bands.
Groups of youths sat drinking beer on the red, white and blue kerbstones. They were angry with the RUC for keeping them away from the church. Hundreds marched right up to the police cordon and stood, eyeball to eyeball, with the officers.
"You're scum and you know you are," they sang.
"The only time it will be safe for you to show your face in Ballymena again will be disguised as Santa in the shopping centre at Christmas,"
one protester warned a policeman.
A woman taunted the RUC officers: "I suppose you will be leaving to go up the Falls and have tea with Gerry Adams."
The crowd threw firecrackers at the officers, cheering when they exploded.
Back at Our Lady's, Mass was ending. The congregation sang the final hymn: "Mother of Christ, Star of the Sea, Pray for the Wanderer, Pray for me."
"Safe home now, God bless," Father Cowan said. The church grounds were soon empty and Father Cowan locked the gates.
The loyalists prepared to march.
A cameraman was pushed and kicked.
Many of the young men hid their faces with scarves. Some even wore sun glasses. "U, U, UVF," they shouted. The police stood asides and the parade moved off.
Our Lady's was deserted and ink darkness. The first band marched to the church, stopped, then played The Sash with gusto. The Billy Boys were back in charge again and there was not a Catholic in sight.