Lighter Whites - Chateau Pique- Segue, Montravel, 1998 (Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Vintry, Rathgar; Cheers-Playwright, Blackrock; Cheers-Wicklow Arms; Vine Vault, Portlaoise and many other independent off-licences, usually £6.99). Bergerac can show Bordeaux a thing or two with this fresh, enticing wine. The grape mix is typical of white Bordeaux, but organic methods and fastidious makers work wonders - at an honest price.
Tesco Chablis 1997 (Tesco, £8.99). Although relatively ripe and round for a Chablis, crispness and that hallmark mineral tang keeps this in the light category. Well made and delicious, it's the best one I've tasted at under £10 - outstanding value.
Richer Whites - Casablanca Santa Isabel Chardonnay 1997 (Oddbins, £8.99). If you're looking for a buttery Chardonnay but shrink from oak-laden monsters, try this suave, creamy Chilean whose flavours linger deliciously.
Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone 1997 (Bennetts, Howth; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Vintry, Rathgar; Galvins, Cork and other outlets, usually £8.99) From the organic, dynamic Perrins - owners of Chateauneuf's famous property, Beaucastel - a really flavoursome, peachy white. Reach for it when you're ready to give Chardonnay a rest.
Lighter Reds - Santa Cristina, Toscana, Antinori, 1998 (widely available, £6.99-£7.29). Unless I'm dreaming, this isn't quite as light a wine as it used to be. It seems a touch smoother, richer - even, dare I say it, less typically Italian. But it still slips down a treat with light meats, pizza, pasta and the like.
Gallo Sonoma, Sonoma County Pinot Noir 1995 (selected Superquinns, some SuperValus, off-licences including Sweeneys, Dorset Street and Fairview; Londis, Malahide; Redmonds, Ranelagh; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; O'Donovans, Cork, usually £8.99). A trendy, tasty Pinot Noir at this price? See Bottle of the Week.
Richer Reds - La Tour du Prevot Reserve, Cotes du Rhone 1997 (Marks & Spencer, £7.50). Here come those Perrin brothers again, with an exception to the rule: most Cotes du Rhone qualify as lighter reds, but this Reserve is a terrifically punchy example, tinged with herbs, tar, rubber . . . The basic Tour du Prevot is an amiable but more slender beast.