As the controversial ban on fox hunting comes into effect this week in Britain, London Fashion Week opened yesterday with fur flying all over the catwalk and not one protester in sight.
The event, which has moved to Battersea Park this season, continues until Thursday with 47 catwalk shows for autumn/winter 2005, nearly half of which are by relative newcomers, supported by stalwarts like Paul Smith, Betty Jackson and Jasper Conran. John Rocha will be showing this morning in Claridges and Paul Costelloe at the Irish Embassy in Grosvenor Place on Wednesday evening.
London may be better known for fostering creative talent than for its commercial clout on the international fashion stage, but the sterling/dollar differential is not encouraging US buyers, who are noticeably absent. Two more British designers, Boudicca and Alice Temperley, have announced that they will show in New York next season rather than London, though one high-profile name has returned home.
Julien Macdonald, the Welsh designer known for sexy, superstar clothes, was creative director at Givenchy in Paris for three years, but the company is now seeking a replacement. Yesterday, on a catwalk carpeted with cow hides and with a soundtrack of high heels striking the pavement, Macdonald sent out an uncompromisingly lavish and glitzy array of furs, sequins and skin-tight skirts that clamoured for cameras and movie star attention.
Furs of every kind and colour from black and white polar fox, to mink, racoon and dyed fox appeared in bomber jackets, shrugs or opulent coats inset with deep bands of gold sequins. Dresses were Oscar in spirit, long slithers of red lame, bias cut gold satins or fluttery jade chiffons.
One short black number that sent flashes down the runway was so thickly encrusted with crystal, silver and diamante that it seemed more like a piece of heavy body jewellery than evening wear. Even a humble steel grey knit vest was studded with silver and worn with Katherine Hepburn-style high-waisted trousers for added glamour.
Other daywear had equally powerful voltage like an oversize Prince of Wales check cloak, a long coat in chocolate wool and a stiff russet brocade skirt under a long gold knitted coat. Accessories tell their own story, and if shades and spike heels were the necessary accoutrements at Macdonald, at Camilla Staerk's show, the star turns were prim "secretary" spectacles that imparted a bluestocking look to the whole collection.
Staerk is a young avant-garde Danish designer with a strong, feminine aesthetic that skilfully draws from the repertoire of menswear classics like waistcoats and tuxedos. Close cut military jackets were anchored with big leather belts and shirtdresses were worn with waistcoats and tight trousers, Indian style. A fitted rust lace dress was simple and effective and neat, fine knitwear emphasised a supple body. Staerk's clothes have a certain rigour and chic elegance that is very French. This was an impressive collection.
Last night, at a private view at the Dover Street Market, the head of the multi-million pound Comme des Garcons empire, Rei Kawakubo, gave Top Shop her imprimatur for its efforts "to nurture creative expression" by providing space to house exclusive collections from five of the 14 New Generation Young Designers sponsored by Top Shop at fashion week.