What way are wine lists like those in Ely and La Cave heading? Towards the south of France. In a year's time, there's every chance we'll see more mighty reds from the Midi - currently the hottest source of affordable wines with oodles of character. In the meantime, enjoy Chateau Pech-Latt Corbieres 1998 (Ely, £3.35 a glass; available from Molloys Liquor Stores, Pettitts in south-east, usually about £7.99). With organic certification (another trend to watch), it's robust, peppery and pure.