Bottle Of The Week

Claret for everyday consumption can be a treacherous beast - too dilute or tart, too blackcurranty or boring. Not so Chateau Villepreux Bordeaux Superieur 1995 (outlets right, usually £7.99), a model example with a nice, peppery middle and surprising length considering its modest price. Unlike so many bottles these days which taste their best at first gulp, its appeal increases until you've polished off the lot.