Bottle Of The Week

Although I'm a fan of some of Latour's upmarket Burgundies, I didn't expect to be bowled over by the bottle at the bottom of the ladder, Louis Latour Chardonnay, Bourgogne, 1996 (outlets above, usually £7.49-£7.99). Vin ordinaire, I feared, with a big name. But this is a lovely, subtle wine, with hints of lemon, a tiny bit of butter and the gentlest of mineral undertones all flowing harmoniously together. You'll guzzle far more than you meant to. Just like that salmon!