Bending and bonding on a Greek beach

What would it be like to head off alone on a holistic writing holiday? After an unexpected start, AILBHE BRILLEYgot into the flow

WHEN I ARRIVED in Skyros, in the Aegean Sea, I was pleased to hear that a group lunch had been organised. The idea of a writing holiday on a Greek island had been hugely seductive, but I was feeling slightly awkward as the reality of holidaying alone sank in.

I squeezed on to a bench between a man with stringy grey hair (and several crocodile-tooth chains around his neck) and two Germaine Greer-esque women talking earnestly about their chakras. At the next table a posh English voice squealed with laughter. “I can’t believe you know Bunty, my psychotherapist.”

These were not the loud creative types I had met on writing courses in Ireland. They had far fewer clothes on, of course, but that wasn’t quite it. The vibe was that of the aging hippy. I asked a woman if she had signed up for creative writing. “No, dear, I am embracing uncertainty.” It was only several days later that I realised this was the name of a course.

Skyros is a favourite with rich Athenians, as it is close to the Greek capital. The island’s capital, also named Skyros, is a heritage town, with original cobbled streets and white houses. The Skyros Centre, which was one of the first holistic holiday destinations, set up in 1979, now offers courses in writing, sailing and surfing, among others.

After lunch I fled from the the group in panic, heading for an internet cafe to check out cheap flights to any other Greek island. As I wandered through the winding streets I was hailed by a young Englishwoman with a beer in her hand.

“Are you Ailbhe?”

“Yes,” I replied hesitantly. She introduced me to my fellow writers, who were in the middle of a boozy lunch. After several beers they told me that my previous lunch companions had come from the other side of the island on a day trip.

Skyros offers two very different types of holiday; that group came from Atsitsa, which is for those who like their holistic experience strong, undiluted and austere. It is a remote self-contained centre offering chanting, reiki, chakra-clearing and general tree-hugging. Nights are spent sleeping in a bamboo hut.

For those who simply want a dash of holistic experience in a cocktail of writing, sun, sea and sand, Skyros Centre is the one to pick. Both courses include rituals that seem to be based on a philosophy of the commune. Meetings are held after breakfast, not only to give the schedule for the day but also to allow people to “share” with the group.

Some of the positive affirmations were too corny for my taste, but I clapped along cheerily, anxious not to upset the group. Others chose to give out about aspects of the holiday, which made for much more interesting listening.

After this healthy dose of air-clearing we all were given a daily chore. I was part of a team that swept leaves from the centre’s steps each day. It took me three days to realise that my companions were a lazy lot and usually abandoned me after a few token swishes of the broom.

Our centre was not residential, and we lived in loft-style apartments in the town, with balconies overlooking the cobbled streets.

My day began with an outdoor yoga class, followed by breakfast on a terrace overlooking the sea. The writing classes began at about 10am, in a cafe or down near the beach. The cafe owners were only too happy to supply us with endless pastries and cappuccinos while we waited for the muse to strike.

Our teacher was a young man who taught creative writing at a UK university. Most of the classes involved workshops in which we wrote about life experiences, then read our work to the group if we felt like it.

At about 2pm we would head for lunch. Then we had the afternoons to ourselves. Usually we would assemble on the beach and meet up for dinner. Our group was very sociable, and we stayed out until late. The ages ranged from late 20s to late 70s, but everyone got on. Perhaps the fact that we had all travelled alone, or often read out quite personal pieces in class, bonded us.

Since coming home we have been in constant touch with each other, and we even had a reunion weekend in Dublin.

It seems that, whatever way you sample Skyros, it has a huge impact, which is why people keep returning year after year.

• skyros.com
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