SARAH FREEMANtravelled to Marrakech for a long weekend with expectations of palaces and mosques, spices, heat and mystery – and she wasn't disappointed
IMAGINE A PLACE straight out of tales of The Arabian Nights, where waves of sultry heat carry the scent of orange and lemon groves through the kasbah and into shaded courtyard gardens, where snake charmers and musicians crowd the main square and where haunting calls to prayer from the muezzin issue forth across the city five times daily.
This is Marrakech, a city famous for its rust red walls and renowned for its colourful raconteurs. I arrived at Menara Airport for a long weekend with expectations of palaces and mosques, spices, heat and mystery – and the city didn’t disappoint.
We drove past the red walls of the medina which glowed orange in the evening sun as swallows swooped in and out of the arrow loops in the walls. Soaring palm trees provide bursts of colour against the backdrop of the blue skies and far-off Atlas mountains. Camel herders shelter under the trees while their charges graze by the side of the road. Modern mores exist side by side, with women wearing robes that shroud them completely while others wore billowing djellabas and kaftans with loose headscarves. Likewise the men, some of whom wore smart business suits while others, especially those courting girls on benches in the shade of the old walls, were dressed in T-shirts and jeans.
The drive to the private luxury residence located in the desert oasis of the Palmeraie took just 15 minutes from the old city and a total of 12km from the airport. Designed by Moroccan architects, Ezzahra is built in the traditional style of a Riad, with a central courtyard maximising the shade in the sometimes scorching heat.
Constructed originally in 2003 as a family retreat, the house is the same rosy hue as the rest of Marrakech and is set in beautifully tended grounds with extensive rose gardens, orange trees and lavender beds and features a giant chess set, a traditional kheima (tent) and a green-tiled swimming pool, all of which are illuminated with lanterns and candles.
The house sleeps 14 and my bedroom was located on the second floor of the internal courtyard where a water feature tinkled soothingly. The bedroom was the perfect mixture of five-star luxury and homespun decor with fresh roses from the garden and a vast bed, spacious en suite and dressing area. In the old slatted wardrobes were complimentary slippers and kaftans. A cavernous tub which took pride of place in the bathroom was decorated in traditional tadelakt. This golden Marrakchi lime plaster is applied until completely smooth and is the traditional finish in palaces, hammams and riads.
I made my way through the cool stone corridors and out onto the terrace for an aperitif. The balmy night air, call to prayer and the distant croaking of frogs and cicadas emphasised the very different world we had flown to.
The terrace, immediately my favourite part of the house, is furnished as lavishly as the interior. With low tables and chairs all comfortably upholstered with white cushions, the area is illuminated by candles and enormous bronze lightshades that allow light to peep through the pierced designs. Mohamed, the house steward, served glasses of chilled Moroccan rose and trays of feather-light pastries before leading us inside to the antique dining table for a delicious dinner of lamb tagine with ratatouille. With a house chef to create a menu of Moroccan and international cuisine to suit every taste, guests at Ezzahra are given a choice of menus every day. To really soak up the Arabian atmosphere, we took tiny cups of strong coffee and sat on the scattered cushions in the kheimaout by the pool.
With facilities that include a meeting room, screening room, game room, wellness centre, gym, hammam and beauty salon, the house is more like a small hotel. With three beauticians available for massage, hairdressing and beauty treatments throughout the day there is no shortage of pampering. The hammam, a typically Moroccan treatment, is well worth trying and involves being scrubbed and washed down. As part of daily life for Moroccans, they are located all over town and cost anything from 10 dirhams, which is the equivalent of €1.
Early the next morning, I opened the doors to my terrace to hear doves cooing in the garden. It was muggy but still comfortable enough for a jog and so I made my way to the imposing gates of the house and set off. Having forgotten about our neighbour, a Saudi Arabian prince, I was quickly reminded of our proximity to the wealthy royal by the armed security detail he had stationed in sentry posts along the entire perimeter of his property. My feeble attempt at exercise in the rising heat invited such suspicious scrutiny by these young guns that I slunk back to the house for an infinitely more refreshing swim.
After a breakfast of fresh omelettes and coffee, we set off on a shopping trip, accompanied by the house manager, Maria. We first visited some modern emporiums where crockery, carpets and candle holders were great value. We then drove through the chaotic traffic, sharing the road with every mode of transport, camels included. Navigating past donkeys and carts, motorbikes, mopeds, bicycles, horse-drawn carriages and a multitude of mustard-coloured taxis, we passed a McDonald’s and a Zara clothes shop, an opera house and a beautifully decorated train station.
On arrival at the Djemaa el Fna square which is where the real beating heart of the city lies, the wide expanse was full of bustling traders selling everything from freshly squeezed orange juice for 10 dirham to photo opportunities with snake charmers. This Unesco cultural heritage site has a hot, sensuous and chaotic feel and could easily double as the set of an Indiana Jones movie with the cacophony of traditional music, beeping carhorns and overheard snatches of Arabic. Nearby, the majestic edifice of the Koutoubia mosque rises up above the palm trees. Entry is forbidden to non-Muslims, though there are some mosques no longer used for prayer that tourists can visit.
We entered the shaded labyrinth of the souk from one corner of the Djemaa el Fna. The warren of narrow streets is shielded from the blistering heat by slatted wooden roofs which allow shafts of sunlight through to illuminate the scene below. The souk is a shopper’s paradise and everything you might want to buy from kaftans to lamps to handbags is on offer. Assured by Maria of its safety thanks to all the undercover police stationed there protecting the all-important tourist trade, I felt perfectly comfortable browsing and bargaining. A little spoken French goes a long way and I didn’t experience any of the hassle one might expect from shop merchants eager to sell their goods. However, that might be thanks to the two Marrakchis who accompanied me on both visits.
The deeper one walks into the souk, the darker the streets and the cheaper the prices. With artisans in small studios at its centre, handbags in all shapes, sizes and colours hang from stalls and doorways. The smell of newly-tanned leather is pungent and an exquisitely tooled handbag in reddish brown leather, bought for €25, still carries a faint aroma weeks later despite many outings in the metropolis of Dublin.
Lamps of pierced steel hang like bunches of grapes in doorways and spice shops display saffron, cumin and jasmine in perfectly symmetrical rows of colour and textures. The general guide is to haggle down the original price to a third although that feels a bit mean when one considers the work that goes into many of the items. Babouches, or slippers, which are worn by Marrakchis, are made of soft leather and come in many colours. At just 50 dirham (or €5) they make lovely souvenirs. There are entire shops full of colourful tassels and I snapped up a few key rings for €1.50 each.
We returned to Ezzahra in time for the ultimate indulgence: a facial and manicure while lounging by the pool. This house would be the perfect destination for a big family party or a group of friends who want to treat themselves to a week of luxury in a city that demands further exploration. After only three days in Marrakech, I fell in love with the city and can’t wait to return.
Where to stay for a get-away-from-it-all break with a difference
* Riad Ezzahra. 00-212-524-328688, www.ezzahra-morocco.com. Riad Ezzahra costs £183 (€212) per person per night staying seven nights, all inclusive (based on 14 guests sharing the accommodation). The price includes all facilities offered at the house, all meals, non-alcoholic drinks, laundry and the all-important hammam, massage and beauty treatments.
* Riad Kasbah. 1800-550453, www.splendia.com. The riad Kasbah is situated in the Medina (old town) just seven minutes walking from the Djemaa el Fna square. It has 10 large suites, each one equipped with air conditioning, telephone, mini-bar, high speed internet access, satellite TV, CD and DVD player. There are lounge areas where you can sip mint tea and try Moroccan pastries. You can dine by candlelight, facing one of Marrakech’s stunning monuments, the illuminated Koutoubia mosque. Bed and breakfast in a double room for two people from €69.
* Riad Palais Sebban. 00-212-524-440225, www.palais-sebban.com. Located in the Medina, two minutes from the Djemaa el Fna square, this 19th century palace has conserved all the authenticity of its three patios, with roofs made of painted wood and frescoes in carved plaster. It has 15 suites and a terrace with a view of the Medina and the distant Atlas Mountains. Two chefs, French and Moroccan, prepare a menu that includes famous Moroccan dishes like couscous, tagine and Pastilla. Bed and breakfast in a double room for two people from €122.
* Riad Farnatchi. 00-212-524-384910, www.riadfarnatchi.com. This riad has eight suites and is located in the oldest part of Marrakech. Houses have stood on the site for many centuries and some of the walls go back over 400 years. It has the feel of a private house with the facilities of a world class five-star boutique hotel. Bed and breakfast in a double room for two people from €300.
Go there
Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) flies London Gatwick to Marrakech. Iberia Airlines (www.iberia.com) flies from Dublin to Marrakech via Madrid and Barcelona.