Chianti Classico is in a class of its own

One evening recently I managed to get hold of some good fresh lamb's liver from my butcher. Out of potatoes and rice, I searched in vain for polenta – not sure why, it is rarely worth the trouble. Then I realised I had some fava beans (or a jar of M&S Spanish Alubia Blanca to be exact) in the cupboard and several bottles of Chianti Classico to taste.

I decided to create my own Hannibal Lecter dinner for my unsuspecting wife. An hour or two later and we sat down to a plate of garlicky herby beans (with a glug each of olive oil and duck stock) with slowly cooked onions and flash-fried liver. All very good and the Chiantis were excellent.

It was a timely reminder of just how much I enjoy Chianti – the good stuff, that is. Chianti is a huge region and the wine comes in many styles, including, in the recent past, some of the least impressive wines around. However, when properly made, it is one of Italy’s greatest wines.

It is also vital to understand the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico. Over the twentieth century, the area producing Chianti expanded from a small historic region that supplied the Medicis and other medieval Tuscan noble houses with wine to include many other areas unsuitable for quality wine production.

Some of you may be familiar with the Chianti that came in fiaschi, those rounded straw-covered bottles that adorned many flats as candle-holders or lampshades. The bottles looked great; sadly the wine was not always as good. This generally inexpensive poor quality wine came from the area surrounding Chianti – and often illegally from the south of Italy according to some.

In recent years, the less expensive versions have improved and many now offer light, if watery, smooth fruits. It is not classic Chianti but it is far more drinkable than in the past. Chianti is obviously popular too; I counted no fewer than six different versions in my local supermarket.

The smaller Chianti Classico region is the original, the area that does have a history going back centuries. It went through a series of welcome changes in the late 20th and early 21st century. Thanks to increased interest from the US and elsewhere, growers in Chianti invested heavily in state-of-the art wineries (often spectacular architectural buildings, sometimes including guesthouses or cookery schools). Winemaking skills improved too, and many planted better quality clones of Sangiovese, the grape at the heart of all good Chianti. Some argue that this and lower yields are responsible for the huge increase in quality.

Many Classico vineyards are at higher altitudes, making ripening difficult but giving great elegance and freshness to the wines.

The rules regarding grape varieties have also been tightened. Where once it was obligatory to use a percentage of white grapes, Classico is now made from a minimum of 80 per cent Sangiovese. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are permitted, alongside the local Canaiolo and Colorino.

Nowadays, Classico is a serious structured wine, aged in oak barriques and capable of ageing for a decade or more. Alongside a few wines from the neighbouring regions of Chianti Rufina and Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Classico is responsible for all of the great wines of Chianti and stands alongside those of neighbouring Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano asone of the great wines of Italy. All Chianti Classico bears the black cockerel symbol on the capsule.

Real Chianti Classico is a delicious savoury wine, made to go with food.It only comes into its own when drunk as part of a meal. The wines tend to have good acidity as well as drying tannins, not ideal for sipping on their own.

In addition to the liver above – and it was a good match – Chianti Classico is the perfect partner for red meats. Locally they serve it with bistecca alla fiorentina, a massive beef steak from Chianina cattle. It also works well with slightly fatty roast pork. In season it will partner various kinds of game.

I have covered some of the great names of Chianti here before, including Isole e Olena, Fontodi, Selvapiana, Rocca delle Macie, Felsina and Antinori. Today, there are four Chiantis imported directly by the retailer. The Lidl version falls into the soft and fruity category. The others, which are much dearer, are more serious altogether.