The old country never looked so green

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He sat in the shade on his balcony: an ample gentleman wearing only dark blue shorts and eyes sadder than a bloodhound’s as he held a pair of binoculars and sat watching the Irish team during their afternoon training session in the Borgo a Buggiano Stadium.

Whoever he was, he had the best view of the first official sighting of Giovanni Trapattoni’s Republic of Ireland team since they arrived in Tuscany on Sunday afternoon.

This, then, was Trapattoni’s vision when he chose the old spa town for pre-tournament training: terracotta roofs, beautiful weather, a quaint stadium in the shadow of the Montecatini old town and a small band of curious Italian boys peering through the iron railings to catch a glimpse of the Irish and the godfather of the national game.

And, maybe also, to catch one of the Irish footballs that were occasionally sent bulleting towards the shimmering Tuscan hills and take them home as souvenirs. “Get a picture of them robbin’ the footballs,” directed Dick Redmond as he strode past the photographers. The kit man was understandably frustrated by the disappearance of the Irish squad footballs on the very first afternoon.

At one stage, Marco Tardelli was moved to stroll over to the perimeter to deliver a lecture to his young countrymen. And after that, the shots at goal became more accurate.

Other than that, it was a dreamy afternoon. This is “Irish Week” in Montecatini – the first and, one suspects, the last of the May festival which is a collaborative effort by the Montecatini municipal council and Bord Bia.

So the pretty streets are festooned in Irish colours, bicycles have been painted green and the streetlights are adorned with posters advertising the presence of the players – although the sight of Tony Cascarino celebrating some long forgotten goal while Terry Phelan piggy-backs in delight suggests that the names of the current Irish squad do not exactly roll of the tongues of the good people of Montecatini.

The community might well be pleased with this Irish invasion but they aren’t about to get over-excited.

The Giro d’Italia whizzed through here recently and that was a rare departure from a pace of life which errs on the extreme side of sedate. The place radiates peacefulness, with a strong emphasis on culture, boutique fashion stores, tree-lined avenues and ice-cream parlours. It is slow in rush hour; during the nothing hours of the mid-afternoon, it comes to a standstill.

By three o’clock the bicycles, lounging against every lamp post, gave the distinct impression that they could not be bothered. But it is achingly gorgeous and possible sightings of a bone fide Premier League star added to the spice of life for the locals.

And so rumoured sightings of Damian Duff ducking into a church and Seán St Ledger enjoying an iced lemonade abounded. It was all very tranquil and serene, a world away from the scenes at the Italian camp just down the road, which was at the heart of the match-fixing scandal that has gripped the Italian football public.

Yesterday’s national train strike just added to the mood of unease. But in Trapattoni’s little piece of Italy, all was perfect. “I think it is a beautiful village,” he smiled after yesterday’s short, robust training practice. “It is also near the airport. The other locations are too far – we need two hours on the bus. So this is easy. I was also many years with other teams here and I always felt good here.”

It is easy to see why. Last evening, a civic reception was held in honour of the Irish side. The Italian hosts arranged a raucous barbeque where the beer flowed until early dawn . . . no, no, scratch that. That was 10 years ago. No, Trapattoni’s Irish team marched in smart fashion into the splendour of the Stablimento Tettucio, where a brass band played You’ll Never Beat The Irish amid fountains and stone cut cloisters that have echoed with the footsteps of Italy’s high society since the 19th century.

FAI chief executive John Delaney and Trapattoni smiled as they posed for photographs alongside Stefania Bivone, the newly-crowned Miss Italy and the Irish team sat politely as local officials and Irish ambassador Patrick Hennessy afforded them long and polite welcomes. All expressed the hope that an adventure which began here in neo-Roman splendour would finish in Kiev – for both the Irish and the Italians.

This then, is Trapattoni’s way: showing the old country to the Irish. So far, so Tuscany.