Things To Taste

I suggest you buy two examples of the same varietal wine - Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or whatever - one from the …

I suggest you buy two examples of the same varietal wine - Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or whatever - one from the Old World (Europe) and the other from the New World (Australia, New Zealand, the Americas, South Africa). Taste them side by side and compare them.

With extra sunshine, does the New World effort taste a little richer and sweeter, the Old World wine a little more subtle - or more austere? Do you like the overall flavour of the grape they're made from - and which bottle do you prefer? Here are a few tasty Old-New pairs to play with:

Chardonnay Domaine Val Saint Jean, Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongue 1999 (Mitchells, £5.89). White Burgundy is Old World Chardonnay at its best - but expensive. This well-priced-example from further south is still typically French - light, appley and crisp.

Errazuriz Chardonnay, La Escultura Estate, Casablanca Valley 1999 (very widely available, usually £6.99). Not overoaked and blousy, like some New Worlders, this Chilean is still a much bigger, creamier Chardonnay, tasting of melons, papaya and a touch of spice. Watch out for its high alcohol . . .

READ MORE

Merlot

Domaine de Montplaisir Merlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc 1999 (Super Valus/Centras/Roches Stores nationwide, £5.99). From a promising new Super Valu range, here's a typical Old World Merlot - smooth, lively and relatively light, with hints of plum compote, vegetal undertones and a dusting of spice.

Tesco Chilean Merlot Reserve, Curico, 1999 (Tesco, £6.49). Turbopower! Chilean sun cranks up the ripe fruit and mint chocolate flavours, the velvety texture, the suppleness. This is a knockout example. See Bottle of the Week.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Berrys Good Ordinary Claret NV (Berry Bros, £6.95). Cabernet-dominated red Bordeaux like this stalwart is subtle stuff - savoury with light blackcurrant overtones (whereas New World Cabernet veers towards blackcurrant jam). Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo 1999 (widely available, usually about £7.50). This has oodles of that ripe blackcurrant character - Chilean Cab usually tastes as if somebody has flung in a generous dash of cassis - but it also has attractive herbal notes, and a nice bit of peppery grip.