I don't think we value the aubergine highly enough. In certain countries, it is one of the mainstays of the cuisine - there is an Israeli restaurant which devotes its menu entirely to aubergines - while the resplendent cuisine of Turkey is a testament to the versatility and deliciousness of the vegetable.
I have a book, by the Provencebased writer and teacher, Nina Kehayan, called Simply Aubergines, which is full of recipes for aubergine, and nothing else. In the foreword of the book, Arabella Boxer tells us "many years ago, at a dinner based on aubergines, in an old wooden house overlooking the Bosphorus, I first heard the story of the foreign guest who asked for a glass of water after his meal: `just plain water, if you please, without aubergine . . .' ["].
The addiction to aubergines is understandable. Apart altogether from admiring their handsome, slightly-threatening mien, here is a vegetable which adapts to other flavours and absorbs other flavours with a passiveness which is endearing.
Ratatouille without aubergine is unthinkable. Moussaka, without its starchy subtlety, could not exist. But there is much more that can be done with aubergine than our familiar favourites, especially if you buy decent aubergines. Dutch, hydroponic-grown aubergines are a travesty of the species, consisting of a whole lotta water, little or no texture and zero flavour.
Try to find Irish-grown aubergines, which will be firm and will require little or no salting before you cook them, a process which is usually specified before you cook the aubergine. I find with organically grown aubergines that the process can be sidestepped. If you can't get your hands on Irish aubergines, then always try to buy aubergines which weigh heavy in the hand: if they are big and lightweight, you are paying for water, and they will produce little food.
Salt them by slicing or cutting into cubes, then laying in a colander. Distribute salt over them generously, and leave for about half an hour before rinsing, then pat dry. This technique should mean that they absorb less oil when cooking.
The following are some ideas which showcase the aubergine in delicious fashion.
This first recipe is a fusion of potato and aubergine, but the technique of lightly crushing the potato, rather than mashing or pureeing it, helps to keep the aubergine taste distinct, and accentuates the taste of the fresh herbs. This is simple to make, and disarmingly delicious. Make lots, for the next day it is gorgeous as a salad.
Crushed potatoes with aubergine
2 lbs potatoes, peeled 1 lb aubergine, diced 6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 oz ginger, chopped 1 onion, approx 3ozs 1 spring onion, finely chopped. mint leaves, chives, parsley, coriander leaves, chervil
Cut the potato into large dice, and cook in boiling water until a knife pierces them easily, approximately 10 minutes. Drain, and dry the potatoes over a very low heat for three to four minutes. They should be distinct and separate.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to a large pan and when hot add the finely chopped onion. Cook until the onion is translucent, then toss in the ginger and garlic and saute briskly. After a minute add the diced aubergine and saute until soft, approximately 7 to 10 minutes.
Now, using a wooden spoon, add the aubergine dice to the potatoes, slowly crushing the spuds as you mix in the aubergines. Don't crush too much - you want a distinct mosaic of potato and aubergine, with the textures and colours of the ingredients still intact. This is not a gloopy dish!
Add the chopped spring onion, then leave the mixture to rest for 2 minutes. Then, stir in a good splash of good olive oil, slowly blending it in with a fork, enough to make the contents glisten. Finally, add a selection of chopped leaves, whatever you have to hand, but try to include mint leaves (aubergine loves mint) and if you have coriander, then there is no need to use the other green herbs. Add the coriander first, the mint last. If you don't have coriander, then a fusion of chives with parsley or chervil, along with the mint, is a delight.
Aubergine Risotto
I think the inspiration for this combination came from a Wolfgang Puck recipe for duck and aubergine pizza, which I have eaten as cooked by Seamus O'Connell of The Ivory Tower Restaurant, in Cork. It is an attempt to create a very different type of risotto from the conventional soupy, cheesey, buttery Italian style. Using meat with risotto is relatively uncommon - the Italians will use pork sausage, occasionally - but the pieces of duck are delightful with the rice, and the duck loves the offsetting flavour of the fried cubes of risotto.
Either left-over roasted duck, or duck confit, works perfectly, and if I have a preference it is perhaps for roast duck. Once again, use whatever green herbs you have to hand, though the fresh oregano is perfect, but even it can be matched with a little mint. This is a handsome dish, and quite substantial even though it quite deliberately has no cheese and only a little butter, so think of it as a main course for four, rather than a starter.
12oz aubergine 2 pints duck or chicken stock 10oz arborio rice 2 duck legs, either confit or from a roast duck, meat removed from the bones and diced 1 medium onion, finely chopped half an ounce of butter olive oil sprigs of oregano
Chop the aubergine into medium-small dice, heat one tablespoon olive oil in a pan until hot and fry the aubergine until golden and tender, about 7 to 10 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper and reserve.
Bring the stock to the boil, reduce heat and hold it at a simmer. Heat one tablespoon oil and half an ounce of butter in a pan, add the onion and fry until translucent. Add in all the rice and stir to coat the rice with the oil/butter gloss. Now, begin adding the stock ladleful by ladleful, stirring all the while, until the rice is cooked but still slightly al dente, approximately 20 minutes over a fairly lively heat. If the stock runs out before time, add water.
When you feel the rice is just about cooked, add in the chopped duck meat, and stir for one minute. Then add in the reserved aubergine, stir to amalgamate, turn off the heat and cover the pan. Leave for five minutes while you warm the plates. Just before serving, stir in the chopped oregano. Spoon onto the plates and drizzle with your very best olive oil, carrying the bottle to the table for those who want more. A little confetti of mint leaves is an excellent garnish.
Sweet and Sour Aubergine
It was that most gifted chef, Maura Foley, of Packie's Restaurant in Kenmare, who first alerted me to this gorgeous idea for aubergines, which comes from A Feast of Flavours, Annie Bell's splendid first book.
2 medium-sized aubergines salt and pepper olive oil for frying 1 large red onion 6 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped (or a 14oz/400g can tomatoes, drained) 3 tablespoons aged red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon capers, chopped mint
Slice the aubergines 0.75cm, quarter of an inch thick. Salt them liberally on each side and leave them to disgorge their bitter juices in a colander for 30 minutes; this reduces their absorbency when you come to fry them. Rinse the slices and pat them dry with kitchen paper.
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a frying-pan, and fry the aubergine slices, a single layer at a time, till they are a deep brown. Arrange them on a plate.
Coarsely chop the onion. Heat a little olive oil in a saucepan, add the onion, and cook until it starts to turn golden. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper, taking into account that the aubergines are already seasoned with salt. Cook the sauce over a low heat until it is smooth and some of the liquid evaporates. Stir in the capers.
Spoon the sauce over the aubergines, and sprinkle it with chopped mint shortly before serving.
Aubergine and Garlic Chutney
I make no apologies for returning to Oded Schwartz's book on preserving, for this knock-out chutney. Make lots of this: it really is stunningly good.
1kg (2lb) aubergines, cut into 2.5cm (1in) cubes 2 tablespoons salt 3 tablespooons groundnut, olive or sesame oil 1 tablespoons nigella seeds 3 tablespoons sesame seeds 4 heads garlic, peeled 250g (8oz) shallots, quartered 2-3 red or green chillies, deseeded and coarsely chopped 750ml (1 and a quarter pints) cider vinegar or white wine vinegar 150g (5oz) soft brown sugar 3 teaspoons sweet paprika small bunch of mint, chopped (optional)
Put the aubergine cubes in a colander and sprinkle with half the salt. Mix well and leave to drain for one hour. Rinse well and pat dry with paper towels.
Heat the oil in the preserving pan, add the nigella and sesame seeds and cook for a minute or two, until the sesame seeds start to pop.
Add the aubergine, garlic, shallots and chillies to the pan and cook, stirring frequently, for about five minutes.
Add the vinegar and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, until the aubergines are soft. Add the sugar, paprika and remaining salt, stirring until they have dissolved.
Increase the heat slightly and cook, stirring frequently, for 45 minutes - one hour, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is thick. Add the mint, if using, and remove the pan from the heat.
Ladle the mixture into the hot sterilized jars, then seal. The chutney is ready to eat in one month, but improves with keeping.