CHINA: Chinese police joined throngs of tourists in a crowded Tiananmen Square yesterday, poised to head off any incidents to mark the anniversary of the bloody military crackdown on pro-democracy demonstrations 17 years ago.
With checkpoints at entrances to the square and guards at subway stops, the security presence in and around China's symbolic political heart appeared no more overt than usual. But in line with the unspoken policy of "wai song, nei jin" - relaxed on the outside, vigilant internally - plainclothes policemen mingled with tourists, ready to pounce should anyone attempt to mark the day by unfurling a protest banner, kneeling to pray or laying wreaths.
The security ritual has occurred annually since June 4th, 1989 when troops backed by tanks shot their way from the city outskirts to the edge of the square to end rallies for democracy that students had led there since mid-April, when they had gathered to mourn the death of reformist leader Hu Yaobang. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, were killed.
Students on the square yesterday appeared more interested in the sights - Mao Zedong's mausoleum, the Great Hall of the People and the history museum - than in politics. "Is today a special day? Is it your birthday?" said Qing Chaoyun (23), a student, when asked if she knew what anniversary it was.
"Oh, he's talking about the trouble in 1989," said her friend. "That was a very long time ago," she added with a giggle.
There was no special police presence on Fuqiang Hutong, where Zhao Ziyang - the party secretary toppled in 1989 for sympathising with the protesters - lived under house arrest for 15 years until his death in January 2005. People walking into the alley towards the door of his home got little more than a hard stare from men in plainclothes. Still, dissidents were rounded up ahead of the sensitive anniversary.
Seventeen years ago, students huddled in the night around the Monument to People's Heroes in the centre of Tiananmen Square, waiting for the military assault. It was cordoned off yesterday.
After China declared martial law in May 1989, students knelt to block subway entrances - many feared that's where the soldiers might emerge - and shouted: "Dare to die squad, I fear not death." Today, tourists emerge to file past sentries onto the square.
Meanwhile, tens of thousands of people waved candles, chanted slogans and sang songs in Hong Kong "Reverse the verdict on June 4th. The people will not forget. Long live democracy," chanted the crowd, which organisers estimated at 44,000 but police at 19,000.