Bottle Of The Week

New Year resolution number 1: resist the temptation to view so many mass-produced wines as a heap of manure when that very substance, and other organic essentials, can deliver us deliciously pure, distinctive flavours at low prices. St Michael Organic Chateau du Parc, Coteaux du Languedoc 1998 (Marks & Spencer, £6.49) shows what can be done: it's velvety, juicy, true-tasting, with a nice bit of peppery grip. Easy but not boring. Hooray!