Whether you're knocking it back with gusto in the Festival Supper Club after the show, or sipping it sedately by your own fireside, I hope you'll agree that Rioja Murice Crianza, Vina Ijalba, 1994/5 (Side Door restaurant, £17; widely available from independent off-licences, usually £7.99-£8.50), is a star performer. It's Rioja showing its approachable, modern face - all velvet and vanilla at first but packing plenty of punch in a warming, spicy finish. Even the tall, handsome bottle looks the part.