EVEN before the permitted three or four glasses have impaired your judgment, you might think that Fuente del Ritmo Tempranillo (Quinnsworth, £4.59) was a rather grand Rioja at twice the price. This star from La Mancha in central Spain has blackcurranty fruit, vanilla and tobacco flavours from its maturation in oak and a meatiness which would make it just the thing to drink with a warming midweek casserole. Even in the winter sales you won't find better value.