I’m walking Coogee Beach on the outskirts of Sydney and feel like I’ve been transported to Dollymount Strand in 1982. The warm summer breeze follows the countless young men with mullets and fresh-faced girls chattering with Irish accents. It’s no surprise the locals call this part of Sydney County Coogee, the 33rd county of Ireland.
I’ve even spotted some fellow Irish empty-nesters on the promenade, over to visit family. My son, Mark, moved to Sydney last February so I’ve taken one month to explore his new home, and spend the first week close to Clovelly Beach. It’s one of the charming coves dotted along the east coast, and part of the stunning Coogee to Bondi Walking Trail.
Mark finishes work at 6pm but it’s easy to fill the time. It’s been 35 years since I was last in Sydney, and the city has ripened like a delicious tropical fruit, with many fantastic activities. The Bridge Climb is new since my last visit and turns out to be a highlight. I reach the top with a giddy sense of achievement. It’s actually not as scary as it appears from the ground, as we are tied to a rail, and safety is a priority. The views are spectacular, but I do feel it on my thighs next morning.
Transport around Sydney is easy to navigate with a tap on and tap off of my credit card. Buses run on time and trains are spotless. My daughter, Nicole, has come along to visit her brother, and one of our first excursions together is Sunrise by Kayak. Getting up at 4.30am to do anything on holiday might sound ridiculous but it’s common for young people in Australia to get up before sunrise and head to the beach for a swim and coffee before going to work.
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As we arrive at Lavender Bay, we’re greeted with our pre-orders of coffee and tea and handed lifesavers. After a quick demonstration from our guide, Laura, we are off to watch the sunrise with stories about the harbour and a sustainable message too.
Another gorgeous way to enjoy the harbour is with a cruise. Options are endless but Nicole and I opt to spoil ourselves with Cruise Sydney. This leisurely two-hour cruise includes lunch while hearing the stories and history of the harbour. With unlimited beverages this gorgeous excursion is a bougie way to enjoy the views. Book well in advance.
Surry Hills is a fashionable part of the city close to Oxford Street and lined with great places to eat; from tapas to Thai cuisine, there’s a restaurant for everyone. It’s not far to walk to the buzzing Chinatown and a great spot to shop for gifts. A day can be spent in the tropical botanic gardens or on a day trip to Manly by ferry.
Other must visit spots are Sydney Opera Bar, where we welcomed in the new year. Tickets are much sought and need to be booked well in advance. We had to queue for an hour to bag the best spot by the wall but it was well worth the wait. We shared the festivities and fireworks with a young Scottish couple and many other international friends, giddy with excitement to welcome in the new year before the rest of the world.
After Mark went back to work and Nicole went home to do her college exams, my partner, Terry, arrived and I met him in Brisbane. We took five days out to explore more of Australia by train. Journey Beyond and Outback Spirit are specialists in longer excursions, and Australia, with its wide open plains and distanced capitals, is perfect for a lengthy train trip.
Internal flights are cheap in Australia and run almost hourly between Sydney and Brisbane, where we begin our adventure on The Great Southern Railway. During the summer months this gigantic train travels between Brisbane and Adelaide and back again. Over four days we pass through four states.
Brisbane is full of surprises, with a stunning south bank and esplanade where we enjoy the views on The Brisbane Wheel. The best way to travel is on the river with City Cat Ferry service – astonishing value at 50 cent a trip. We board the Great Southern Rail at Acacia Ridge and are handed lanyards with our cabin numbers – each coach is divided into categories gold, gold premium and platinum. There’s an old world ambience that accompanies train travel and we feel more like pioneers than tourists.
We are pampered from the minute we enter our cosy cabin as two glasses of prosecco await. The couch converts to bunks overnight and we have our own ample en suite with shower. Each state brings a different cornucopia of scenery, from the lush green of tropical Queensland to the more arid grasslands down south. The buffet car is made up of booths and tables covered with crisp white linen cloths. Every menu reflects the regions we pass through.
Train travel eases your body into a new landscape without the shock of arriving suddenly. It’s good to travel in harmony with the sun, and we have a time change on entering New South Wales only a few hours into the journey. Next day we visit Port Stephens, a sunshine resort, and get to see the coast by catamaran. It’s next to the Hunter Valley, and some guests take the wine-tasting option.
The temperature outside is a baking 40 degrees when we reach Melbourne, but it’s lovely and cool in our cabin. Some passengers visit the MCG Stadium and others the Art Gallery while we opt to hear about Ned Kelly at Old Melbourne Gaol. Afterwards we eat lunch in the highest restaurant in the southern hemisphere at Eureka 89 on the 89th floor of Eureka Tower.
Our last evening is tinged with sadness as we have made friends over our four-day trip. Everyone agrees that a train is a wonderful way to have a holiday within a holiday. Journey Beyond offers other intriguing itineraries cross country on the Indian Pacific and through the spine of the continent on the Ghan.
Our journey ends in Adelaide and we spend a lovely evening at the Indigo Hotel close to Central Market. Adelaide is a low-rise city but with a gorgeous art gallery, and it’s a short spin in an Uber to the beautiful beachfront at Glenelg.
On returning to Sydney we spend the last few days in luxury at the W hotel on Darling Harbour (B&B from €292 per room). It’s a 30-minute walk from Circular Quay but we have the option to grab a tram or ferry. This hotel is a statement of architectural splendour and aptly nicknamed the ribbon because of its curvaceous outline. Our room has a round bath and spectacular views. I slip off to the Away Spa for a treatment with Maria from Chile, who leaves me floating back to my room. It has a wonderful thermal suite and two pools. The BTWN restaurant is fancy but good value for a special meal. It’s where we spend our last night with Mark. Darling Harbour comes alive on Saturday nights with a free firework display after 9pm.
Leaving Sydney is difficult but there is comfort in seeing where my son is living. I’m only one of thousands of other Irish parents in a similar position. Although it’s a big expense to travel to Australia, it is well worth it. Mark doesn’t feel so far away any more.
Michelle Jackson was a guest of Journey Beyond Rail, journeybeyondrail.com.au. The Coast to Capital Cities four days, three-night trip costs from €1,600pp in a gold standard cabin. visitnsw.com
