Journey of rediscovery

JOHN G O'DWYERreturns to the west Galtees - and regrets that he has been away for so long

THE MOMENT I return I know I have been away too long - much too long. The outlines of these insouciant hills once again weave their spell. The narrow pastoral valleys, drystone walls and rounded tops immediately recall, as they always have, strong echoes of the Lakeland dales and fells.

There was a time when I was an unashamedly relentless cheerleader for these unfrequented hills, but then I drifted away from the west Galtees, seduced by sexier ranges with compelling gullies, rocky ridges and ice-crusted summits. Now at last I am back - and glad to be.

In bright winter sunshine, and with snow crunching satisfyingly underfoot, I amble up the lane towards the great whaleback of Monabrack mountain. After following it as it heads right, past a deserted farmhouse that today is enclosed by trees standing stiff and white, I am soon out on rough pastureland and heading west of north along a broad crest.

Eventually, the crest narrows and I reach the cairned summit of Monabrack, which offers one of my favourite views at the heart of the Galtees. In whatever direction I now gaze, familiar friends, from Galtymore to Temple Hill, and Lyracappul to Knockaterriff, are laid before me.

So far so wonderfully scenic, but now I am faced with an inconveniently steep loss of height to a col below the Galty Ridge proper. From here I have the option to follow downhill a switchback track that was used to draw turf from the mountain in a less affluent era.

The track leads into the Blackrock Valley and then back to my starting point, by way of the eastern slopes of Knockaterriff, but I opt instead for a heart-thumping ascent that toils steeply up a spur to Galty Wall. This impressive drystone structure, built in the late 19th century to divide two great estates, still runs three and a half kilometres along the Galty Ridge.

Magnificent snowy views unfold into the Glen of Aherlow as I follow the ice-smudged wall on the left to the tiny cairn at Lyracappul (Confluence of the Horse). This small imminence from the ridge improbably represents the highest mountain entirely in Co Limerick and the second-highest point in the Galtees.

This is my objective for the day, but a black northerly wind ensures I don't tarry. Descent is by a grassy ridge running south towards Knockaterriff, where I carefully avoid the tops of great gullies cutting into the Blackrock Valley. When the ridge reaches it lowest point I swing right and head west for a confluence of streams that marks the start of the Pigeonrock river valley.

Here is an ideal, serenely sheltered place to take lunch, as it is almost totally devoid of distant views and perfectly meets the requirement for total oneness with nature. Leaving with reluctance, and rambling along the riverbank with the valley growing gold in the evening sunshine, I eventually pass through double gates beside a new farm building.

Here the Pigeonrock and Blackrock streams coalesce to form the Behanagh river. I now follow a rough road south as the Behanagh gurgles happily alongside, but I know I am not the first seduced by it charms. Its palpable delights were, in fact, first recorded by no less a personage than the Elizabethan poet Edmund Spenser, who resided not far away, at Kilcolman Castle, in Co Cork.

Next I pass through a gate and then join with another lane before saying a last goodbye to the Bahanagh. Soon after I am back at my parking place, not having encountered another soul throughout my solitary circuit. As I drive contentedly away I vow not to be so tardy again with my next visit to the sublime west Galtees.

Getting thereLeave the new M8 Portlaoise-Cork motorway at junction 12 and follow the signs for Kilbeheny village. Go through the village and continue a short distance beyond on the old N8. Then turn left at a sign for King's Yard and follow this road straight uphill past a water-treatment works. Immediately afterwards stop at a Y junction, where there are limited parking opportunities. Your walk now takes the right option, leading directly ahead.

TimeAllow five hours to complete the route.

SuitabilityAlthough the going never gets terribly tough, this is a challenging walk that reaches considerable altitude. So be well kitted, with spare clothing and rain gear.

Carry a map and compass and be aware that the route crosses some trackless moorland where it is easy to become disorientated in mist.

MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 74.

Food and accommodationKilcoran Lodge Hotel (052-7441288, kilcoranlodge hotel.com) offers "olde worlde" charm in a peaceful sylvan setting. Located beside the N8, it has serves food all day and offers accommodation in rooms and lodges. Otherwise, seek hospitality in nearby Mitchelstown.