Peaches are too good to leave for dessert. Put them in starters and main courses, too
The French have the right idea about buying peaches: if one is good, a few dozen are better, so get a whole box. Everything is so much simpler then: none gets bruised, and when you get home you can scoff the lot. Eating peaches at room temperature is far better than eating them from the fridge, as the warmth releases their full aroma.
White peaches are much more delicately flavoured than yellow ones, but it can be hard to find good ones. When you do, however, the purity and depth of flavour are unbelievable - they're as tasty as all those still lifes make them look.
A few tip: If your peaches are on the hard side, peel and slice them, then cover them in a syrup made with 100g of sugar and 250g of water before raiding the drinks cupboard for something to splash over them. To peel a peach, cover it with boiling water and leave it for between 10 and 30 seconds, depending on its ripeness.
To indulge in a traditional Bellini, mix one part chilled white (never yellow) peach juice with three parts chilled Prosecco (not Champagne), then sit back and dream of Venice.
Recipes serve four or, for the lamb, six
PEACH AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD
4 handfuls salad leaves
4 tbsp olive oil
1 dsp balsamic vinegar
2 ripe peaches, thinly sliced
8 slices prosciutto, gently torn
1 punnet cherry tomatoes, quartered
Season and dress the salad leaves with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Toss well, then add the peaches, prosciutto and tomatoes. Serve.
ROAST LEG OF LAMB STUFFED WITH PEACHES AND THYME
2kg leg of lamb
olive oil
6 peaches
bunch thyme, leaves picked
You need to bone the lamb. You can ask your butcher to do this, but it is very easy. Cut through to the bone with a sharp knife and work around the bone, which you can then remove and discard. You will be left with a flat piece of meat. Season generously and drizzle with two or three tablespoons of olive oil.
Roughly chop the peaches, discarding the stones, add the thyme, then arrange the mixture down the centre of the lamb. Fold the meat back over and tie it with cotton string.
Preheat the oven to 220 degrees/gas seven. Put the lamb in a roasting tray, season the top with salt and pepper and roast for 25 minutes.
Turn the oven down to 170 degrees/gas three and roast for a further 40 minutes. Remove and allow to rest in a warm place for at least 10 minutes. Carve and serve with the juices from the pan.
STUFFED PEACHES
4 peaches
70g amaretti biscuits
4 tbsp brandy
cream
Halve and stone the peaches and remove about half of the flesh. Crush the amaretti and combine with the chopped peach flesh and brandy. Fill the halved peaches with the mixture.
Preheat the oven to 220 degrees/gas seven. Put the peaches, cut side up, in a lightly greased oven tray and pour a glass of water into the base of the tray. Bake for 15 minutes or until the tops start to brown. Serve with the cream.