GREATDRIVES MACGILLYCUDDY'S REEKS:The roads that wind past Kerry's lakes and around the Macgillycuddy's Reeks provide a wealth of impressive driving, writes BOB MONTGOMERY
IN THIS and the next article in this year’s series, I’m going to explore two magnificent roads in a part of Kerry that remains unknown to most people who visit this most-visited part of Ireland.
Over the several years that I’ve been exploring Ireland’s scenic routes for readers of The Irish Times, I’ve come to realise that this part of Kerry, bounded in the north by the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, to the west by Caragh Lough, to the east by the Ballybeama Gap and to the south by the Ballaghisheen Pass is among the most beautiful places anywhere on this island.
Caragh Lough forms its western boundary and is a wonderful introduction to its charms. I approached today’s exploration by travelling southwest on the N70 from the pretty town of Killorglin. I turned off the N70 at the sign for Caragh Lake near the Kerry Bog Village.
At every point on my journey, the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks formed an ever-changing backdrop of brown and blue in the distance, like sentinels presaging something special. And so Caragh Lough proved to be.
Once the road has joined the western edge of the lake, a series of mountain vistas open up across the lake. On the western side rises Seefin (493m) followed in a southerly line by Beenreagh (495m) and Macklaun (607m).
The eastern shore of Caragh Lough is not as high, but still the land rises up in several promontories – most notably Gortnagan Mor (246m) and Gortnagan Beg (298m) – to create a very attractive view across the lake from our road. At its southern end, the lake narrows and once again the views are outstanding with the ever-present Macgillycuddy’s Reeks forming a wonderful backdrop.
All too soon the road moves away from the southern end of the lake, heading first southwest and then swinging around to the southeast.
Here, the nature of the landscape changes and is wooded with several small bridges before coming to Blackstone bridge over the River Caragh which feeds into the lake.
At Blackstone Bridge, I met a local man who told me that at one time there was a village near here populated by Welsh men who mined pig iron to be made into cannonballs. I’ve been unable to verify this story or to find any trace of a village. Can any reader enlighten me on this?
From Blackstone Bridge, continue on to the junction with the road to Waterville via the Ballaghisheen Pass. Swing right along this road and you will soon come to the area known as Glencar and to The Climbers’ Inn, an ancient hostelry well known by those who climb the nearby Macgillycuddy’s Reeks.
There’s much to explore here: turning left at the junction with the Waterville Road will bring you a short distance to the edge of Lough Acoose while the Ballybeama Gap is also close by, as is the picturesque sheet of water which is Cloon Lake to the south.
Finally, a word about the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (Na Cruacha Dubha or The Black Peaks), which dominate the landscape around this drive. Ireland’s most magnificent mountains, they contain our highest summits, Carrantuohill (1,039m), Beenkeragh (1,010m) and Caher (975m). There are several deep corrie lakes among the mountains, including lonely Coomloughra Lough and another known as The Devil’s Looking Glass. It was in the Reeks that Ireland’s last wolves were killed in the 18th century.
This is a region of endless fascination with so much to be explored. The drive along the edge of Caragh Lough provides an excellent starting point and is the entrance into a wonderful landscape.