The Big Mamma Group, as the name suggests, does not do things in a small way. Founded in 2015 by Frenchmen Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, the group now has some 30 restaurants around Europe, all dedicated to serving great Italian food in fancy, even opulent surroundings.
Managing director Enrico Pireddu is a busy man, overseeing the concurrent opening of two new Gloria restaurants, one in Paris and one in Dublin, on Westmoreland Street. When asked why the group chose to come to Dublin, his response is quick: “We are French Italian. There is a lot of emotion going on. So when we visited Dublin for the first time, we felt that you have a similar vibe and a strong sense of community.”
Finding the right location for Gloria was key. “We visited a lot of sites, but when we found Westmoreland Street, when we entered and saw the listed room, the space and the light, I just knew this was the one. I was already projecting ourselves there, calling Filippo [La Gattuta – the group executive chef] to see what kind of pasta would suit.”
Located on a corner of Westmoreland Street and College Street, with Trinity College across the street, the former AIB premises had lain vacant for many years. The task of designing an interior worthy of this grand sandstone building fell to Studio Kiki, Big Mamma’s own in-house design team, and in particular to senior interior designer and Howth, Co Dublin native Chloe Townsend.
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“I wanted to be involved as soon as I heard Dublin was on the cards,” she says. “Seeing the design grow and gradually come alive and really blossom is my favourite part of this job. I’m really excited to see how people will feel about it when they come in. My favourite items are the Bambi chairs which are meant to reflect the patterns found on the deer in the Phoenix Park.”
The Big Mamma group is always on the lookout for unique eye-catching art and display pieces, and Townsend had her pick of a warehouse packed full of treasures sourced from markets and small designers.
In Gloria Osteria Dublin, the deep wine red walls are a striking counterpoint to the magnificent Jacopo Foggini red glass chandeliers and the Rosso Levanto marble bar. On the walls, framed vintage Salvatore Ferragamo headscarves and pieces of costume jewellery jostle with 1960s photos of cool people doing cool things and even a priest’s vestment. Statues of dogs, mounds of red flowers and the group’s signature, brightly decorated handmade plates round out the look.
La Gattuta is in Dublin to oversee the opening of the kitchens, working alongside head chef Davide Migallo. “The concept of our menu is very simple because we want to keep the authenticity of our Italian recipes, but with small twists that we call Big Mamma twists. The most important thing for our menus are our producers. We are really, really proud to work with small Italian producers,” says La Gattuta.
Pireddu also emphasises the group’s supplier network. “Many are small family businesses who work with us in a partnership. They are growing with us. I once forgot to order the burrata for a restaurant opening and our supplier loaded up his van and drove from Puglia to Berlin. He joined us for the opening party and drove back the next day.”
The Dublin menu has all the familiar sections, but the twists and extra attention soon become clear. Tarte Tatin is made with sweet datterini tomatoes and served with pecorino cream, while crudo di pesce is finished with Sicilian citrus and capers, and fresh pasta is made in-house every day.
In a nod to Dublin, veal osso bucco is cooked down with Guinness and served on creamy polenta while Irish beef takes pride of place in the grill section. The real showstopper however is the tangy lemon pie served under an impressively high dome of torched meringue. Expect to see it featured regularly on social media.
Prices start from €5 for house focaccia, ranging through €18 for a plate of 30-month-old prosciutto crudo di Parma, €38 for turbot with fennel, clams and beurre blanc sauce and €45 for lobster ravioli topped with caviar. Desserts range from €9 to €16. The wine list is Italian-driven, with classic cocktails also on offer.
The restaurant will seat 180 people across multiple sections, with an additional 25 spaces available for private dining. Every seat is a good seat, but the low couches in the middle of the main room, or the small tables tucked away behind the bar will surely be in high demand. General manager Antonello del Mastro points out that dogs are also welcome, with bowls and blankets provided for their comfort.
Gloria Osteria will open 12pm to 11.30pm from Sunday to Wednesday, and 12pm to 12am from Thursday to Saturday. It opens officially on November 27th and bookings will be available on the restaurant’s website.
