It’s said that the postcard, the chandelier, cocktail glasses and psychoanalysis have origins in or close associations with Vienna. A fun mix.
The Austrian capital has also brought about a model of social housing that is revered and studied by policymakers and planners worldwide. Think stunning imperial grandeur surrounded by architecturally pleasing superblocks of rental properties built in the 1920s and 30s and beyond. The city of Vienna is landlord to some 200,000 co-operative dwellings with people from all walks of life and socio-economic backgrounds living there. It makes for a harmonious atmosphere and is probably one of the reasons why Vienna was ranked most liveable city in the world for 10 years in a row.
In terms of Irish connections, monks from these shores founded the Schottenstift abbey in central Vienna in the 12th century and, in the late 17th century, Austria gave refuge to a large number of Ireland’s Wild Geese émigrés.
It’s also popular with conference delegates; and Vienna awaits discovery once the business of the day is done. A city filled with beauty, it has Gothic churches and lavish Baroque palaces in abundance, as well as modernist and contemporary designs by architects like Adolf Loos, Otto Wagner and Zaha Hadid.
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If you like art, Vienna’s many museums house pieces you’ll want to see. In particular, look out for Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele at the Leopold Museum; the former’s Death and Life, along with many of his square landscapes, adorn its walls. The museum can be found in MuseumsQuartier, one of the largest cultural areas in the world, near the Hofburg imperial palace. The area draws crowds not only because of its world-class museums but also its lively restaurant scene. The largest collection of Klimt paintings, along with The Kiss, perhaps his best-known work, can be seen elsewhere, at the Belvedere Palace, about 30 minutes’ walk away.
After a stroll around the museum district, have lunch at Neue Hoheit, a rooftop restaurant in the Hotel Rosewood, a beautifully restored 19th century building in Petersplatz. A mix of European and Viennese cuisine bursts from the menu here and it’s a great place to unwind while getting your fill of people watching.
Next take a shopping trip with Lucie. An American now living in Vienna, Lucie has curated a shopping expedition around the imperial and royal purveyors to the household of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. You will start the tour with Kaiserschmarrn (traditional pancakes) at Demel cafe, followed by a visit to AF Kochert, jewellers to emperors and kings. Buy ties or neck scarves at Wilhelm Jungmann and Neffe, the only surviving Viennese fashion salon from the 19th century, while Glass Museum Lobmeyr, founded more than 200 years ago, houses many of the aforementioned cocktail glasses and chandeliers.
Later dine in Michelin star Restaurant Edvard in hotel Anantara Palais Hansen, headed up by chef and culinary wizard Paul Gamauf. Gamauf draws inspiration from nature, gathering, preserving and fermenting much of the food that appears as delicious works of art on your plate. A wine pairing with each of the five courses will set you up nicely for a nightcap in Theo’s bar, next door. There a mixologist will assemble some interesting signature cocktails, such as Cherry Intermezzo or Canvas Nights, or any classic of your choosing.
If you are a night owl, take a cab to Das Loft on the 18th floor of SO/ Vienna hotel, a favourite among locals and expats. Views are exceptional and the drinks even better.
Stop off for a late-night graze in Alles Wurscht, a stalwart food stall serving every kind of Viennese snack, from frankfurter to currywurst. Like locals, eat on the hoof with a small beer in hand.
Arise early the next day, assuming it’s a Sunday, for high mass. A highlight of any Viennese trip is a church concert and a visit to Augistinerkirche is essential. Mass starts at 11am and you’ll be swept away by musical arrangements from Mozart, Schubert or Haydn. Entry is free and you’re guaranteed to leave uplifted.
At weekends, the Viennese decamp to the Danube; there are many beautiful swimming spots in clean, clear water. Try the Old Danube with its lovely restaurants and bars or the adjoining Kaiserwasser in Kaisermühlen, which is particularly popular with locals.
Hotel Palais Hansen is an excellent choice for accommodation. Sleep in rooms overlooking the inner courtyards, which benefit from natural light and are sublimely quiet. Larger suites look on to the pretty, tree-lined Ringstrasse. In winter there is nothing better, and nothing more Austrian, than sauna and steam, so an afternoon in Anantara Spa in the hotel’s basement comes highly recommended too.
