I find it remarkable that Gerry Galvin ever became a chef, never mind the appropriately lauded chef he is. For the man would appear to have no ego, an attribute which appears to be essential for anyone who works creatively in a kitchen, and especially for someone who runs their own restaurant - something Galvin has done this brilliantly for more than two decades, firstly with The Vintage in Kinsale, Co Cork and, in recent times, at Drimcong House, in Moycullen, Co Galway.
But in his new book, Everyday Gourmet, Galvin never for a second slips into the self-congratulation which is endemic among cooks turned cookery writers. In the section on breads and baking, for example, he writes: "Serious bakers are a breed apart and I am in awe of them. They are invariably blessed with good sense and an unmistakeable other-worldliness".
And meanwhile, two of his own recipes, for smoked salmon scones and carrot and dilisk bread, are imaginative and original. He writes modestly that: "My hope is that Everyday Gourmet will tempt cooks to invest time and thought in preparing sensible, happy meals" - a statement echoed when he explained to me that, "I set out to have a book that worked, whereas lots of chefs' books, I find, are intimidatory." And, indeed, the book will do just that, giving domestic cooks a repertoire of true, real dishes.
The collaboration with Tesco/Quinnsworth on the book means all of the ingredients are widely available and even the most straightforward cook will relish the impish creativity found in all of these recipes. Their simplicity is their outstanding feature, but unlike the simple recipe stuff which we find in magazines, there is a true culture and distinction about these recipes. As Galvin writes: "I also believe that food is for sustenance and about pleasure rather than rarefied research, and that the cult of the super chef, whose recipes are vague, often guarded, secrets is simply absurd."
Everyday Gourmet also bucks the trend of conventional cookery titles by including specific sections devoted to children's dishes, to essential accompaniments and to one-pot dishes. It also enjoys typically imaginative vegetarian dishes. It presents, therefore, in a very indirect way, the concerns of this most singular cook, and his respect for food, for his customers, and now for his readers.
Here is a seasonal sample recipe from the book:
Turnip Bake
(6-8 portions)
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large onion, finely chopped
250ml/8 fl oz milk
300ml/12 fl oz cream
1.5 teaspoons nutmeg, grated
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
1 large swede turnip, peeled, quartered, and very thinly sliced
Salt and ground black pepper
In a pot, add garlic and onion to milk, cream and nutmeg and bring to the boil. Take off heat and leave to infuse.
Brush a deep, oven-proof baking dish all over with the oil and build layers of the turnip slices, seasoning each layer as you go along.
Pour the infused liquid, including garlic and onions, evenly over the turnip and bake in an oven at 200C/400F/gas mark 6 for about one-and-a-half hours.
Every 20 minutes press the turnip firmly with an egg slice. This helps compact the bake and get the liquid absorbed. If the top of the bake begins to brown before the turnip is completely cooked, cover it with foil and continue baking.
Serve immediately or refrigerate for later use.
Gerry Galvin, Everyday Gourmet is published by O'Brien Press, price £6.99 in hardback.