Nine best for zest

Domaine Henri Peili MinitouSalon Morogues 1994 (Findlaters, McCabes and some other outlets, about £10).

Domaine Henri Peili MinitouSalon Morogues 1994 (Findlaters, McCabes and some other outlets, about £10).

Top quality from a geographic cousin of Pouilly and Sancerre.

Alphonse Mellot Domaine la Moussihre Sancerre 1994 (Superquinn, £11.05 McCabes, Bennetts Howth, O'Sullivans Kenmare and other outlets).

The real McCoy, from an excellent producer. Delicate, flowery aromas, biting crispness and a lovely, slightly honeyed finish.

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Chateau de Tracy Pouilly Fumi 1994 (Redmonds, McCabes, Molloys, Verlings, Superquinn, selected SuperValus, £13.49-£13.99).

I still remember my first mouthful of this, at Ballymaloe House more than 10 years ago. Slightly smoky, distinctly gooseberryish and gorgeous.

NEW ZEALAND ZINGERS

Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 1995 (very widely available, £6.99-£7.99).

It was Montana who supplanted the sheep on New Zealand's South Island with vines. Now they are huge, responsible for half the entire country's output, but their exuberantly fruity and citrussy Sauvignon is still one of most appealing, especially at this price. See Bottle of the Week.

Coopers Creek Gisborne Sauvignon Blanc 1995 (Molloys, £7.30, Roches Stores, Whelans Wexford St, Ardkeen Superstores Waterford, Roger's Wines Kilkenny, and many other outlets).

Pungently grassy, and with an extreme, tongue tingling zestiness that makes this one especially refreshing.

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 1995 (many independent off licences, about £8.50).

In the classic New Zealand mould, herbaceously fragrant with intense, tropical fruit flavours opening out to a creamy finish. Loire lean it ain't but lovely.

Hunters Sauvignon Blanc 1995 (Superquinn and other outlets, £11-£12).

Not cheap, I know, but this is a real stunner, with tantalising aromas and intense, complex flavours that linger on and on.