Two famous Ulstermen, Mr St. John Ervine and Mr Robert Lynd, whose views diverge on many aspects of life, seem to be agreed on the necessity for an improved standard of Irish cooking. It is interesting to compare their views just now, when the winter classes for domestic science up and down the country are about to begin.
Mr Lynd, who is the more severe critic, says in his "Home Life in Ireland": "Never in any place have I seen such leathery and impracticable gobbets of meat as I have sat down to again and again in the houses of small Irish farmers," and he adds that he cannot believe "that any meat would be so militantly bad, so defiant to the human tooth, if it were treated with proper gentleness in cooking."
In a recent address to the Ulster Tourist Development Association Mr Ervine implied that the North must turn its attentions to its cooking. Asking his audience to bear in mind that the sign of civilisation is a well-graced table, he went on: "Give the visitors to this province Ulster food, and give it to them at your best and not at your worst. The best scenery in the world is not so attractive on a wet day as a good dinner."
Very true - and his statement applies with as much truth to the South as to the North. I have told you already what the French thought of them in their "Guide Gastronomique." It was not very flattering to either side.
The Irish Times, August 26th, 1939.
