The group of Italians standing beside us in the market was suddenly all excited at the sight of handsome, firm red mullet ,piled bounteously on the counter. The fish i9s a Mediterranean favourite, and a favourite also of celebrated fish cook, Rick Stein, who describes the taste as "somewhere between fish and lobster, and they have a marvellous texture, coming apart in thick, firm flakes".
Despite its association with the Med, red mullet is relatively common nowadays, and it deserves exploring. One tip to bear in mind when cooking it is to leave the liver inside (and make sure the fishmonger gives it to you if he is gutting the fish), for it adds to the flavour and is pleasant to eat. Here is one of Stein's recipes for red mullet, and remember that this sauce is suitable for many types of fish and is a useful addition to your brigade of tastes.
Red Mullet with a Tomato and Tarragon Dressing
4 small mullet, each weighing about 6-7oz(180-210g)
3 good-sized tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and chopped
1 teaspoon (5ml) fresh tarragon
1 shallot or half a small onion, very finely chopped
3 fl oz (90ml) olive oil
1 tablespoon (15ml) fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Scale and remove the fins from the mullet. Make a small incision in then belly and remove the gut, but mot the liver. Turn on your overhead grill.
Brush the grilling tray with a little olive oil and place the fish on it. Season them with salt and ground black pepper and grill. Being a dense fish, they make take a little longer than you expect, abut four minutes a side for fish this small. While they are grilling , mix together the dressing ingredients and warm through in a small saucepan; don't let it get too hot.
Lay the fish on warm plates, put the sauce alongside and decorate each plate with a tarragon leaf.