Brand Aid: 20 To Try

Australia: Penfolds - reds particularly sound, right up to the dizzy heights of Bin 707 and Grange

Australia: Penfolds - reds particularly sound, right up to the dizzy heights of Bin 707 and Grange. Rosemount - better and better, under the steady hand of Philip Shaw. Tyrrells - the first to plant Chardonnay, but stick with their Shiraz, Pinot Noir and dazzling Vat 1 Semillon. Peter Lehmann - Barossa Valley godfather, with plethora of big-hearted styles.

New Zealand: Villa Maria - Montana is bigger, but not better. Sauvignon Blanc stars, in both Private Bin and Reserve.

South Africa: Villiera - ambitious, from basic Blue Ridge to Sauvignon, Chenin, Merlot and Bordeaux-like Cru Monro.

Chile: Errazuriz - very even wines from a classy outfit; reservas are reds with attitude. Santa Rita - vast quantities but much improved quality, through from 120 to scrumptious Casa Real. Carmen - Rita's baby sister delivers impressive quality, especially in Sauvignon Reserve and reds.

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California: Fetzer - beacon of light in the Californian low-tomid-price desert; organic Bonterra leads the way.

Spain: Torres - pioneers of quality and defenders of character across an incredibly wide spread. Chivite - Navarra performer with flair: main labels Gran Feudo and Coleccion 125. Faustino - the Rioja with highest profile by far, and not unfairly; reds, VII, V, I topped by d'Autor.

Portugal: J M da Fonseca - rich reds, juicy Periquita, Jose da Sousa, D'Avillez, Camarate.

Italy: Antinori - the longest pedigree in Italian wine earns respect from Santa Cristina up to Tignanello. Masi - dynamic Veneto source of good Valpolicella, Amarone and tasty half-way house, Campofiorin. Candido - rich, smouldering southern reds: Salice Salentino, Cappello di Prete, Duca d'Aragona.

France: La Vieille Ferme - juicy organic wines from the Perrin brothers of top Chateauneuf property Beaucastel. Chapoutier - newly exciting Rhone house, now biodynamic and tasty right from £6.99 Belleruche. Moulin de Gassac - volume end of ground-breaking Languedoc property Daumas Gassac; blends Elise and Albaran shine. See Bottle of the Week.