BOTTLE OF THE WEEK

It must be love. Chivite Gran Feudo Crianza 1993 (outlets below, usually £5.99) seemed to me the perfect red to have on hand during the barbecue season. Re-tasted recently amidst a whole parade of interesting wines from Spain's up and coming regions, it remained a clear favourite at the price. It flew through the final test with Sunday's roast pork. It's a wine so perfectly poised - good fruit, a nice touch of spice, a good shot of vanilla, a hint of earthiness, gentle tannins - that you come to wonder, at disconcertingly frequent intervals, how your glass came to be empty.