IT may seem strange to seize upon Australia, one of the few wine territories where Merlot is easily eclipsed by other red varietals but Mitchelton Chinaman's Bridge Merlot 1993 (stockists right, £8.99) deserves special notice. It's a beautifully balanced, elegant wine, worthy of its rating in the recently published Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide of four glasses for quality and four stars for value. It may be a little tricky to track down, but the disco bright, impressionistic label will surely help.