BOTTLE OF THE WEEK

IT may seem strange to seize upon Australia, one of the few wine territories where Merlot is easily eclipsed by other red varietals but Mitchelton Chinaman's Bridge Merlot 1993 (stockists right, £8.99) deserves special notice. It's a beautifully balanced, elegant wine, worthy of its rating in the recently published Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide of four glasses for quality and four stars for value. It may be a little tricky to track down, but the disco bright, impressionistic label will surely help.