Bottle Of The Week

The super-assertive style of Concannon Petite Syrah 1995 (outlets above, usually £8.99) - lashings of black cherry and raspberry flavours, a big dollop of chocolatey vanilla, a grind of pepper - seems absolutely right to toast the determination of the Wine Geese. Although Concannon is now owned by its neighbour, Wente, it's good to hear that a James Concannon is still very much involved. Why, Concannons of the current vintage now own an Aran Islands holiday home with echoes of a Mexican hacienda . . . Whether that interests you or not, I think the wine will. It would be a special treat with duck.