Champagne Jean-Claude Vallois Brut, Assemblage Noble, NV (£22; also in Molloys Liquor Stores and Domaine, Ennis) From a sixthgeneration producer in the Cote des Blancs, this pure Chardonnay champagne is light and citrussy: Billy Forrester feels there's a hint of smoke that makes it good with smoked salmon, but it's also delicious on its own.
Champagne Bernard Gentil Brut Reserve NV (£23; also in Molloys Liquor Stores) All from Pinot Noir, this one is broad in flavour - full of ripe fruit, creamy and mouth-filling. The house champagne of the current French prime minister.
Champagne Bernard Depoivre Cuvee Prestige NV (£25) If you like champagne that's big and bold, this is the one to go for. See Bottle of the Week.