The highlight of a late spring weekend north of the border was a day trip along the Antrim coast road. From our anchor in Ballymena we head out to see the famous coast and mountains and glens that have been awarded the special designated area of outstanding beauty stamps, enough stamps it seems to fill in the entire county of Antrim.
There's no confusion about the location of the Antrim coast road that, for the most part, kisses the sea along a stretch covering over 50 miles from Larne to Cushendall, and then over to Ballycastle and around to the Giant's Causeway. As we travel the marine drive north past chalky cliffs, bays, sandy beaches and harbours, the anticipated left-hand turn inland never materialised. This is a lovely surprise - a real coast road.
Experience of following signs for "scenic route" or "coast road" does not always yield the promise. The sea or lake is spied in the distance beyond several fields or thick hedgerows, and unless the wind is blowing inland the longed-for fresh salty or water-cooled air is lost to our city lungs.
But perhaps we are being a little unfair to compare routes which evolved fairly naturally hundreds of years ago to the Antrim coast road, which had the distinction of being designed by the Ulster architect, Sir Charles Lanyon, in the 1830s, coupled with the skills of the Scottish engineer William Bald.
"Wild Bald" cleverly devised a way of blasting through the rock so that it fell and formed the base for the road itself.
But the road was not built with just pleasant coastal journeys in mind. The land formation in Antrim forms a spectacular pleated terrain of nine glens that all open to the sea. These parallel hills separated the glen communities until the road sliced a communications path along the foot of each glen and ended isolation. Driving along the coast road could satisfy any geography lesson as varieties of almost every rock formation and epoch can be found, from schists which formed the earth's original crust over 300 million years ago to lava fields, glacial deposits, raised beaches, flint beds and red sandstone-tinted beaches scattered with black and white boulders.
We stop near Ballygally, trying not to disturb a local artist who has set up his easel in the lay-by opposite the Ballygally Apartments and is sketching an outline of the view. These apartments are the longed-for, get-away-from-it-all place to which we all wish to escape.
Glenarm village is next. Three old men hug a corner, biding their time, smoking. Our Lady's blue and white figure stands alone in the grounds of one church on the left and around the bend on the opposite side of the road there is another church where red and white fresh flowers shape a big GRANDAD wreath which dominates the graveyard. Two young boys dangle over a high bank in Carnlough waving madly as we drive through and on to our next stop.
On a day trip it's realistic to visit one glen only, so Glenariff, "The Queen of the Glens" was our choice. It is a perfect U-shaped valley which extends inland from Red Bay with sides of rocky precipices rising to wild mooreland and to the Garron Plateau, the most extensive area of blanket bog in Northern Ireland. This whole area is also famous for fairies, fairy thorns and magic mushrooms and tales of the glen's mischievous inhabitants abound.
A visit to Glenariff Forest Park is a must. The park is mainly forest and now includes the former Parkmore Forest, pony trails, a national nature reserve, caravan site and picnic areas. The four sign-posted circular trails begin from the car park and are diverse enough to suit all tastes. The five-mile scenic trail is for the energetic, as it covers forest and open mountain and crosses the Inver River at the head of the glen.
Those who simply want a little airing should follow the garden trail for about half-a-mile along the edge of the grassland area with spectacular views over the glen and back through the gardens and pheasant pens. For a medium airing follow the one-and-half mile nature trail through the gardens and natural mixed woodland while following the Inver River down the glen. We decide on the Glenariff River waterfall trail although waterfall climb is closer to the truth, especially for those slightly aerobically-challenged. Don the boots and follow the 100-year-old purpose-built timber walkway and keep a steady hold of the safety handrail.
We go on to the "capital" of the glens, Cushendall, resting at the intersection of three glens on the curve of the River Dall and close to Tieveragh Hill, the capital of the fairies. The village is dominated by the red sandstone Curfew Tower built in 1809 for idlers and rioters. On through the village of Cushendun with its striking Cornish-style architecture we scan the sights at Torr Head, Fair Head and notice the rope bridge at Carrick-a-rede is missing. Next time we'll find time for a coffee in O'Roark's Kitchen at Ballintoy Harbour.
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The successful `one for one' (sterling for punts) offer available earlier in the year has been re-launched by the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the Northern Ireland tourist industry. Up to 40 hotels across Northern Ireland are offering rates of IR£49 and IR£59 for two nights bed and full Irish breakfast, based on two people sharing. A special "Short Breaks" brochure is available from NITB, 16 Nassau Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 1850230230 or 01-6791977.
Other places to stay:
Galgorm Manor, Ballymena. Tel: 0801266881001. The hotel was fully refurbished in 1993 and is set in 85 acres. There are 12 stables, a show jumping course, an eventing cross-country practice area and clay pigeon shooting.
Mullarts Apartments, Cushendun. Tel: 08012667-61221. Built in the mid-1800s the building was originally a Presbyterian church which has been converted into luxury apartments and are within five minutes from beaches, golf, fishing, hill walking and Glenariff Park. One apartment has disabled facilities.
Ballygally Apartments, Ballygally. Tel: 0801574-583061