Knocking about Ballyknockan

There’s lots to see around Ballyknockan, Wicklow’s ‘Granite Village’, writes Francis Bradley

STONE, FORMED by heat, cooling, deposit, pressure and, often, more heat has been central to man’s development throughout millennia. Sitting in the premier stone division is an igneous stone – granite.

Once, I knew a man who shaped this stone. His hard-learned skills (from a seven-year apprenticeship) cajoled and shaped this tough stone into monumental greatness. Because that is what he was, a monumental sculptor, as were his forebears who hailed from Ballyknockan, the “Granite Village” in Co Wicklow.

Ballyknockan is unique, in that the village is a showcase for the stonecutter’s skills unlike other villages whose buildings reflect the grandeur and opulence of the associated grand estate. Records show that the first phase of large-scale quarrying began here in the 1820s. Prior to that, Golden Hill quarry in nearby Kilbride was the source of granite for Dublin buildings.

Ballyknockan stone was used extensively in the building of Dublin churches in the 1800s, including St Francis Xavier’s, Gardiner Street; St Andrew’s, Westland Row; and St Paul’s, Arran Quay. Other buildings of note are the Bank of Ireland, College Green; Fusiliers’ Arch, St Stephen’s Green and the building which houses the NCAD on Thomas Street. Another example of the stonecutter’s exotic skills can be seen at Valleymount church, Co Wicklow.

A ramble around Ballyknockan village reveals the many skills of the stonecutters, including some treasured curiosities.

Starting from the centre of the village at Cullen’s pub, spend a few minutes getting used to the features that make this village unique. Ornamental chimneys on cottages and outhouses, ornate gateways and gateposts, well-built gable walls, chamfered corners and buildings with finely faced and tightly fitted ashlar granite.

Find your way to Horse Lane in the northwestern corner of the village and head out towards the Bog Road. Horse Lane is bounded on the right by a huge granite field wall 2.5m high and nearly 2m thick. Near the junction of the two lanes stands one of the most iconic sites in the village – the last standing gable wall of the Land Grabbers Cottage. The story goes that, in the 1880s, two Mulvey sisters lived in the cottage. The landlord wanted possession. He demolished the cottage in the dead of night, but the locals, incensed by this, rebuilt the cottage in half a day. Not to be outdone, the “grabber” knocked down the cottage again. However, Bridget Mulvey took legal action, won her case and again the house was rebuilt for her by local people.

Also, at this point, you will notice that the Bog Road continues down to the lake. The valley was flooded in 1940 to create Poulaphuca Reservoir.

Turning in an easterly direction, head towards the junction of the Bog Road and the Ballyknockan–Lacken road. Continue to the site of the old schoolhouse at the bridge over Oghil Brook. From here head back along the Old Road passing Bull Lane on your left (unfortunately, this lane is now overgrown and impassable). At this point you will have a clear view of the crane and quarries to the south.

Back in the village, follow the road out to the quarries. Turning left at Laurel Lodge, you will shortly encounter the unfinished Stone Lion which failed in its attempt to take pride of place at the entrance to Stormont Castle. Opposite the Stone Lion is the outstanding Granite House described in Ballyknockan A Wicklow Stonecutters' Villageby Séamas Ó Maitiú and Barry O'Reilly as having an "astonishing doorcase" and displaying "a builder's catalogue of tricks in granite".

Continuing along the lane brings you to the quarries, which are still in use. An ornamental Celtic cross, which stood in the main quarry, is now positioned outside the entrance.

Heading back along the lane continue past Laurel Lodge until you find the statue of the Madonna and Child. It is said that this work was rejected because the Child is being held in Our Lady’s right arm rather than her left. Continue past the statue and turn right down Spring Well Lane and back into the village.

RouteBallyknockan, Co Wicklow

Start/finishBallyknockan village.

Distance/timeThat is up to you.

SuitabilityEasy walking.

RefreshmentsOJ Cullen Lake View Lounge and the Ballyknockan Inn.

Read Ballyknockan A Wicklow Stonecutters' Villageby Séamas Ó Maitiú and Barry O'Reilly is an excellent guide to the history of the village. It's out of print but may be available from your local library or try amazon.co.uk.