Dune and dusted in Donegal

A walk around a moon-like landscape on the Dooey peninsula offered fine views of local landmarks, writes FRANCIS BRADLEY

MANY OF us remember the heady days of family visits to the seaside. My memories are deeply etched, mainly due to the discomfort of the crossbar on my father’s bicycle. But the pain was worth it.

Dollymount was the nearest destination, but occasionally there was a major expedition to Portmarnock. The features were different but the effect was the same. We had hours of fun in those huge adventure playgrounds – hide-and-seek, cowboys and Indians, and digging holes. All very primal. And the food – everything had sand in it.

This was a tough environment. My sisters were rougher, tougher, faster and meaner than me. On mature reflection, maybe I didn’t have such a good time after all. It may now be too late for retribution, but I’ll work on it.

My first sight of Magheraroarty, Co Donegal, was when I rounded a corner near Falcarragh many years ago, and was surprised to see a large, dome-shaped, golden dune in the distance. It was devoid of vegetation, just like a moonscape, so we called it “moon dune”. My curiosity was piqued and I discovered the dune was on the Dooey peninsula near Gortahork. This is also the location for the closest ferry link to Tory Island.

Magheraroarty beach reaches out into the sea for over 3km and, when the tide recedes, the beach stretches a sandy finger, known as An Clochán (spit platform), towards nearby Inishbofin Island. It is said that it’s possible to walk to the island during an extremely low tide. I’ll leave that for somebody else to prove – maybe I could encourage my sisters.

Starting out from the car park at the pier, the best time to walk this beach is at low tide when you will find more solid sand to walk on. As you proceed, the dunes on your right increase in height until, when you reach the northernmost point of the beach, they offer a fine, elevated viewing point.

The land immediately behind the dunes is used for grazing sheep and further east lies moon dune. There is a 360-degree panorama with views of Muckish, the Aghlas, Errigal, Slieve Snaght, Bloody Foreland, Inishbofin and Tory Island in the distance. From here, you will see a track that passes behind the dunes from the car park to the northern portion of the beach. The beach turns the corner and continues east for a little over 1km before turning southeast into Ballyness Bay. This is a good point from which to access moon dune, or to give it its correct title, An Gaineamh Mór (giant sand hill).

The sandy ramp on your right gets higher and harder to negotiate the further you proceed. You will be surprised to discover that the top of the dune is hard-packed sand. Not a place for building sandcastles.

Soon the beach swings back to the west to An Poll Gorm (the blue pool) and the Lough – sheltered areas favoured by locals. When the tide is out, this is an extensive area of mud and sand flats and the temptation is to head straight across the sands towards the Lough. This would be a rash decision – the sands in this area may seem firm but are quite soft. The best approach is to follow the high waterline.

Ballyness Bay is a candidate SAC (Special Area of Conservation) and the sand flats are important for wintering wildfowl and waders, including the red-throated diver, great northern diver, whooper swan, barnacle goose and others. The common seal, otter and the Irish hare are also found in the area.

From the Lough, join up with the aforementioned track behind the dunes and follow it past the soccer pitch and on back to the car park.

Route Magheraroarty, Co Donegal

Start/finishMagheraroarty pier.

Distance/time10km. About three hours.

SuitabilityTrudging through soft sand is purgatory, so wait for the tide to go out and find the firmer spots. The back of the beach trail is suitable for buggies up to a point. The same can't be said for the front beach. Make sure you're prepared for the vagaries of Donegal weather.

MapOrdnance Survey Ireland, Discovery Series, Sheet 1. There is an information board located east of the car park.

RefreshmentsExcellent portions and value at Bia Cois Farraige, Magheraroarty pier. 085-1196665.