Don't say nay to Chardonnay

Chardonnay has suffered an image problem, but the versatile white is great for everyday drinking, especially in its pure, un-oaked form, writes JOHN WILSON

OVER THE WINTER months, I found myself drinking far less white wine. Even if fish was on the menu, I seemed to head straight for a lighter red, or occasionally a more substantial, rich white. But as summer approaches, I will certainly be seeking out less powerful, more refreshing white wines as I start to eat more salads and other lighter foods.

There are plenty of options available, but Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio still remain the most popular with those looking for a “sipping wine” – something light, refreshing and undemanding to drink with friends.

I have argued before that Chardonnay will be the next big thing, once we start to suffer from Sauvignon/Pinot Grigio fatigue. In fact, though, Chardonnay has never really gone away. It remains one of the most widely-grown grapes, and has always been very popular with some consumers. However, I predict that it will make further inroads over the next few years. It is widely grown in virtually every wine-producing country and will produce decent wine in a wide variety of climates, so there will certainly never be a shortage.

Chardonnay does have an image problem, though, and not just Footballers’ Wives syndrome. It suffers by being something of a chameleon, producing every style of wine from light and zippy to creamy textured and strongly flavoured with oak. It all depends on where the vines are located, when the grapes are picked, and how they are treated in the winery.

In the recent past, the heavy use of oak has turned many wine drinkers off Chardonnay, which is a pity. In the right circumstances, oak-aged Chardonnay produces some of the greatest dry white wines in the world, capable of maturing into something quite sublime.

However, while it is easy to make an average, easy-drinking Chardonnay, you really need the right soils and climate to make something special. It is still common to come across wines that have been excessively oaked, or picked too late in an attempt to tart up inferior wine and sell it at a higher price. Obviously somebody likes them. I know that certain markets, such as the US and Russia, are still very wedded to oak, so they won’t disappear.

However, more and more producers are picking early to retain acidity and therefore freshness, and keeping the wines well away from oak. The resulting wines can be extremely good. Sadly, it isn’t always easy to spot them. At times the label will say un-wooded or un-oaked, and sometimes the back-label will give an indication. But not always. If you find words such as spicy, vanilla or toasty on the back-label, it is likely to have been aged in oak.

Perhaps some of the more enterprising off-licences and wine shops could help out with a separate section or clear indication of oak?

I am not suggesting that you ignore the more serious Chardonnays. I may return to these at some stage in the summer, as I have tasted a few really exciting examples recently.

But for everyday drinking, inexpensive Chardonnay can be hard to beat. In its pure form, un-oaked and treated simply in the winery, it is the perfect all-purpose white wine. It’s light enough to drink on its own without food at parties or with friends, but, having a broader texture in the mouth, it goes very well with a wide variety of food, including most fish and shellfish, as well as chicken and pork. It can take a bit of heat and spice too, and so goes well with many Asian dishes. In other words, the perfect “sipping” wine.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Main a Main Chardonnay 2011, IGP Oc, 13%, €9.99From the south of France, an oak-free Chardonnay with medium-bodied, rounded, lightly textured apple fruits, nicely balanced by some fresh, crisp acidity. A great all-rounder with or without food. Stockists: Next Door Off-Licences nationwide; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Mac's, Limerick; Morton's, Galway; Gibney's, Malahide; Searson's, Monkstown.

Alpha Zeta Chardonnay 2011, IGT Veneto, 13%, €11.99Despite my comments above, this is very lightly oaked, but it really works, adding an extra touch of richness that complements the fresh melon and pear fruits. There is also plenty of citrus and a crisp, dry finish. Good everyday, all-purpose drinking. Stockists: World Wide Wines; Morton's; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2; thewineshop.ie; winesmadeeasy.ie

Plantaganet Omrah Unoaked Chardonnay 2010, Australia, 13.5%, €15.99Very nicely made Chardonnay, halfway between the crispness of a Chablis and the richness of Mâcon. Cool, clean, green apple and melon fruits with a very decent dry finish. It went very nicely with my Thai fish curry. Stockists: Next Door Wines, Enfield; Hole in the Wall; Cellar Master, Stillorgan; Bin No 9; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2; thewineshop.ie; Cinnamon, Ranelagh; winesmadeeasy.ie

Mâcon-Uchizy Domaine Talmard, 13%, €15.95This is one of my favourite Chardonnays, and although not cheap, it still offers great value. Clean, fresh, medium-bodied wine with a lovely rich texture mid-palate, and a long, dry finish. Perfect on its own, but even better with fish or chicken dishes. Stockists: Sweeney's, Glasnevin; The Vintry, Rathmines; 64Wine, Glasthule; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway; The Drinks Store, Dublin 7; Liston's, Camden Street; La Touche Wines, Greystones; Donnybrook Fair; thewinestore.ie

Beer of the week

Dark Arts Porter, Trouble Brewing, 4.4%, €2.75-€3.10 for a 500ml bottleFrom one of the more recent Irish micro-breweries, a very attractive porter – light, but with plenty of coffee, dark chocolate and toasted malt. Great name and great label too. Stockists: Widely available from independent off-licences, including Drinkstore, Dublin 7; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Deveney's, Dundrum; Holland's, Bray; McHugh's, Dublin 5; The Mill Wine Cellar, Maynooth; Bradley's, Cork; Dicey Riley's, Ballyshannon, Co Donegal; Egan's, Portlaoise. See troublebrewing.ie for a full list