There's an international look to these Irish designs that also reflect the prevailing sombre mood. It's back to black once again
THE COLLECTIONS from eight Irish designers for winter 2008, from which these clothes were selected, are more urban and edgy than previously, according to Damien Foxe, who styled this Enterprise Ireland shoot earlier this year. Items chosen from Aideen Bodkin, N & C Kilkenny, Sphere One, Joanne Hynes, Deborah Veale, Mary Grant, Sophie Rieu (Unicorn) and Fee G drew on a common colour - black - and a certain common mood. "There's less romance than before, but there's still a softness of texture, and elements of knitwear are important," Foxe says.
"It's a darker season, and where Irish designers normally like bright colour, this time colours are more serious and sombre, which really reflects what is happening internationally in fashion."
It's a truism that in times of economic uncertainty, designers steer clear of the whimsical and the frivolous, and when times are hard, black is always a safe bet, particularly the little black dress. Dresses, rather than suits and two-pieces, are assuming greater importance for working lives, as are items that can, with minor additions perform a dual function as day or evening wear. "A lot of Irish designers tend to design groups - a dress with a coat, for example, but I wanted to focus on the dress and bring attention to the individual pieces," Foxe says.
With a copper-haired model, some vintage hats and minimal fuss, these pictures highlight the different approaches and particular handwriting of the various designers. Lucy Downes's textured, layered cashmere knits, and Joanne Hynes's sexy bohemian dresses share a common urban modernity, while close-fitting shifts from Fee G and N & C Kilkenny, in a season where dresses are so important, are right on trend. "Irish designers are reflecting international trends more closely this winter and are steering clear of too much romanticism. The collection from Lucy Downes, for instance, could sit in any store in the world - it is really international in its design and construction, and its manufacturing is amazing. I only wish she did menswear," says Foxe.