Is flatbread the new sourdough? Probably not. But like the summer casuals’ version of pizza, it’s cropping up on menus all over the place. Among these, Adjaruli khachapuri – a boat-shaped flatbread from Georgia – was new to me when I tried it recently in The Sea Hare in Cleggan, Connemara, where it’s given a delicious Irish slant with Kylemore Farmhouse and Durrus cheeses, and a local duck’s egg.
As if Instagram had been listening in – I do often wonder – hours later, another flatbread pops up on my feed. This time it's on the menu of a newly opened restaurant, Báidín, at Clifden Boat Club. It's posted by Aoife McElwain, a food writer who lives locally, so it gets my attention.
The three people behind this summer project have the sort of credentials that make good things happen. Sinéad Moclair, the head chef, worked in the Fumbally Café for three years; Tom Mullan worked front of house at The Old Spot, and Cirillo's; and Eva Caulwell is a sister of Laura Caulwell, the ex-Fumbally chef behind Storyboard.
Báidín is very much in the spirit of the-summer-of-outdoor-dining, and yes, there is a little bit of rain as we sit with a sea view at one of the casual wooden benches, with a vase of wild flowers, and strings of festival lights overhead. But there is also a covered area which we move into as the rain tries to make up its mind. The menus are chalked on blackboards in different colours, a simple morning menu, an all-day menu which is available from 12pm, and a short, sweet treats menu. It all has a wonderfully Connemara handknit look.
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It is so good to see a new restaurant that pushes the wee boat out when it comes to offering focused menus, based on local produce
It is a perfect time to catch up with my food writer friend, who I discover is about to land the title of most loyal customer, having been there the previous day when it opened, and is all set to return for dinner that evening. Pretty impressive considering there are just four mains on the menu.
As our dishes arrive, our chat inevitably turns to a discussion of flatbreads. Here, it comes with crispy, spiced lamb shoulder, €15, and is blistered and charred from its time over the charcoal grill. As it has been fermented overnight, it has a nice bounce, and warm, yeasty aroma. The lamb has been cooked slowly, so that the fat has rendered. Singed, jagged pieces have caught more of the heat, an intense crackly delight, tempered with the earthy creaminess of hummus. The organic salad leaves from Uncle Matt’s in Oughterard would be even more spectacular with a little bit of dressing, but all around, this is a zero-waste piece of eating. Nothing is left on the plate.
A bowl of sweet mussels from Killary Fjord, €15, in cream and white wine broth is dusted with chives, parsley and pangrattato, toasted breadcrumbs that add a nice crunch, and a side of crispy potatoes. And the tempura of hake, €16, with more of those leaves and crispy potatoes, is perfectly fresh; steamed to just the right point inside its coat of batter.
For dessert, there are just two options, each €5. A Tunisian orange cake, which will be familiar to Claudia Roden fans, is an example of how good slow-cooked oranges are when they’re worked into a flourless cake with almonds, and local strawberries come doused in a restrained elderflower syrup, bringing out their sweetness and perfume, topped with a floppy dollop of whipped cream.
As half the country decamps to Connemara during the coming weeks, Báidín will quickly be added to the must-visit list, which includes The Sea Hare, Misunderstood Heron and Dooncastle Seafood Trailer. The short menu will change regularly, led by what is landed and available locally, and will always include something from the sea, something meaty, and something vegetable-focused. There is a short reasonably priced wine list, Guinness is on tap, and the selection of craft beers includes Kinnegar Low Tide, €4.50, a very good non-alcoholic beer.
It is so good to see a new restaurant that pushes the wee boat out when it comes to offering focused menus, based on local produce piled into brown paper bags rather than refrigerated trucks. And bread that is made in-house rather than simply finished in the oven. Báidín is here for the summer, and who knows, it may turn into a more permanent restaurant. In the meantime, do add it to your summer list, and be prepared to queue.
Lunch for three with two non-alcoholic beers and a coffee was €73.
The verdict: A menu that is totally led by top-quality local produce Facilities: Downstairs in the club house, perfunctory and clean Music: The daytime playlist, so easy-going tunes Food provenance: Top-quality from local fishermen, butchers and farmers Vegetarian options: At least one option, can adapt for vegans Wheelchair access: No
