All this talk of road closures, sporting spectacles and the grand scale of things got me thinking. Just where is this Tour de France en Irlande going and do these cyclists really deserve such fussing over?

I decided on some method journalism to find out exactly what the riders have in front of them. Packing a map and some essential supplies, I recruited a companion and set out first thing on Sunday morning to cycle stage one of the 1998 Tour de France.

Of course, this was no race so I'd take my time. Besides, the only regular cycling I do is into town and back and my bike is not exactly a tour de force on the road.

The route looked pleasant enough. Cruise on down to Arklow and then back up through the scenic Wicklow Gap. A straight run into the Phoenix Park for the finish, about 180 km in all. It was supposed the take the riders a little over four hours, so even if I had to walk a bit, it could be easily done in a day.

Le Grand Depart. 9.00 a.m.

Plenty of strong coffee to kick off and then down to the Stephen Roche Monument in Dundrum for the official start. Not many people around at this hour and the village looks great with the huge array of flags and bunting. Photo-opportunity number one over and it's off into the unknown.

A sharp right-hand turn out of Dundrum village leads up the steep Kilmacud Road. It's breathtaking already, although not the type associated with excitement. Thanks to the adrenalin, the road up from Stillorgan to Shankill and Bray is easy. The main road in Bray is about the last scheduled to be resurfaced and threatens a puncture at this early stage. Still, Bray looks good and especially the decorations outside Duff's pub.

In less than an hour I'm on the N11 and heading straight for Wicklow. The road is quiet and the sun is shining, making the Glen of the Downs look every ounce worthy of the efforts of those eco-warriors. I don't know if it's the wind at my back or what, but I seem to be flying, racing almost. How much faster could the Tour be travelling? Bring on l'Alpe d'Huez.

No need to stop at either Ashford or Rathnew. A group of club cyclists appear to be gaining from behind, but they soon turn off left, obviously fearful of the Tour route. Bunch of amateurs.

Wicklow Town: Le Preview 1hr 40 mins, Le Tour 1 hr.

It's straight through the town to admire all the colourful decorations. Unfortunately, I miss the turn to get back on the N11 and end up on the golf course road. Twenty navigational minutes later, it's past the Beehive (pub) and due south to Arklow.

Jack White's advertises special Tour de France lunches on race day, but Arklow beckons and the Lucozade will do for the moment. About 10 minutes later the hunger does set in and by the time I roll over the Arklow bridge, the legs are under local anaesthetic. It's time for lunch.

It's almost 1.00 p.m. leaving Arklow on the road for Woodenbridge. This is the first taste of the back roads and it's becoming a deeper green and emitting a stronger perfume with every pedal - the fragrance of the Garden of Ireland. The sweet valley is only spoiled by the noise and sight of Irish Fertilisers - an eyesore if ever there was one. Another rolling river into Woodenbridge and you're close to the heart of beauty personified. There's so much oxygen in the air down here that it could be on the banned substance list.

Avoca: Le Preview 4 hrs 30 mins, Le Tour 1 hr 35.

Maybe I've been enjoying the view too much, because time is getting on. Then a wrong turn at Avoca becomes the first self-inflicted detour of the Tour route. Two direction inquiries - a local farmer and foreign caravan driver - proved useless and after a couple of miles in the wrong direction, I finally get back on track.

It's still an inspiring route through to Rathdrum and past the now customary "This Road Will Be Closed" reminders of what will be coming here next week. I don't think I've even mentioned the quality of the roads so far. It's a cycling paradise and I'm happy that I won't be needing that puncture repair kit after all.

Rathdrum arrives and the first serious dose of tiredness sets in. It's a roller-coaster road into Laragh but the energy is low and I decide on my own feed station. The Tour riders munch on highenergy bars along the way but I settle for the more commercial type.

Laragh: Le Preview 6 hrs 20 mins, Le Tour 2 hrs 20.

I fill the water-bottle and head for the Col de Wicklow. There are some nasty clouds ahead but after this it's all downhill so nothing is going to stop me now. It's a fair old climb alright but the surface is immaculate and helps keep the momentum going.

About halfway up and the legs are gone. All those Sunday drivers are watching and there's no way I am going to stop and walk in front of them. Someone has painted on the road "Kelly and Roche and You". That's cool - only I don't do this for a living.

I made the mistake of looking at Paul Kimmage's book A Rough Ride last night. It's a great read but left me with this image of a knackered cyclist injecting amphetamines as a final boost before a race finish. At this stage, it wouldn't have taken too much convincing for me to do the same.

About an hour later I make it over the Gap. It's wet, I'm cold and about ready to eat a horse. The next point on the map is Hollywood, but God knows how far away that is. The road reminds me of Australia - 500 miles to the next gas station.

Hollywood: Le Preview 8 hrs, Le Tour 2 hrs 53 mins.

At last a shop. I have a Coke drunk before I get to the counter and munch on chocolate Goldgrain for the next few miles. It's enough of a boost to get me through Blessington and back on the Dublin road.

Finally the city comes into view. More confusion in trying to get the right road and then, after 10 hours on the bike, I roll into the Phoenix Park. The Tour does an eight-kilometre loop of the park, but I have to cycle back to Dundrum. Besides, Stage Two is just around the corner.

L'Arrivee: Le Preview 10 hrs 5 mins, Le Tour 4 hrs 6 mins.