Unmasking a crisis in what we eat

Interest in food and diet has never been so intense, yet obesity is becoming the single most important health issue in the State…

Interest in food and diet has never been so intense, yet obesity is becoming the single most important health issue in the State. Consumers are demanding in their search for meaningful information but confused when it comes to deciphering the average food label. Understanding of good and bad foods is undeniable, though the lifestyle of many suggests they ignore indications they should be more active and much more selective in what foods they consume, and eat less.

With diet, contradictions abound and there is no panacea to guarantee health. The Irish Times "What We Eat" series, which begins today and runs over next week, illustrates the strands to an emerging health crisis, and in tandem investigates the provenance of our foods. It raises critical issues not only for consumers but also for food industries and the way they process their products.

Of most concern, perhaps, is research by Irish Times writers which demonstrates the extent to which factors beyond our control are contributing to this dietary crisis. Involuntary consumption of salt and hydrogenated fats for example is fuelling a problem that, unchecked, will put new strains on a health service already under pressure. Hidden salt is contributing to high blood pressure among a large section of the population and, in turn, heart disease and stroke; while trans fats, in the form of man-made hydrogenated vegetable oils, are of concern - a recent European Food Safety Authority report suggests trans fats are 10 times more dangerous to the heart than saturated fats. These trends should prompt the Government to move quickly to implement recommendations from last year's report of the National Taskforce on Obesity, however uncomfortable it may be for food companies.

Coinciding with encroaching obesity, many traditional, local, sources of food - from Irish farms to Irish plates - are disappearing; the inevitable fallout from EU reforms and freeing-up of world trade. In the new open global market, quality and traceability may be compromised. The series shows how this may not be in the best dietary interests of Irish consumers.

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At one level, Ireland is winning a deserved reputation as a "food island". Who would have thought Irish beef in 2006 is being hailed as a health food? Irish niche foods, organic produce and local markets are hallmarks for taste and quality. But, arguably, most of this bypasses a majority of consumers, including those with less disposable income. Most food producers, nonetheless, successfully operate in demanding circumstances, producing nutritious foods; as reflected by "food journeys" featured in the series. But the lack of transparency within other areas of the food sector is leaving too many unknowns in the equation.

"What We Eat" focuses on quality claims. Can we justify claims Irish foods are better than imports? The issues are put to the test across key sectors, notably beef and poultry production. These checks and balances add up to a vital exercise in the interests of Irish consumers.