Why not bag the big ones?

Taking on the four highest peaks in these islands is not as daunting a prospect as you might think, writes Irish mountaineer …

Taking on the four highest peaks in these islands is not as daunting a prospect as you might think, writes Irish mountaineer John O'Dwyer, who has led groups to all four mountains

The problem with climbing mountains is not the risk of death or at the very least incapacitation. People just expect the worst. Conventional wisdom holds that sooner or later proper mountaineers will end up entombed in some far-flung mountain crevasse. Then why, despite such scepticism, do many of us continue an apparently foolhardy affair with high places? The answer is simple. Mountain-climbing on these islands isn't nearly so death-defying as most people may think.

There are, of course, people who would be horrified at the thought of climbing Carrauntohill and still think nothing of dodging across O'Connell Street against the red man, through rush-hour traffic. Such people may be brave or foolhardy depending on your point of view, but given a choice most climbers would opt for the challenge of the mountains.

Up there, the level of risk is in your own hands. Getting to the mountain by way of our traffic inundated roads is actually the most life-threatening part of any outing. Mutating roadway architecture ensures that - like most tasks today - little remains which is tried-and-true and stress free. A journey made is never quite the same experience again, but must be rediscovered anew on each occasion. And along the way we are likely to be tormented by traffic, jeopardised by juggernauts, encounter roadworks, diversions, lights and Formula-One-fantasy drivers.

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Once among the hills, however, we enter an unchanging world without logjams. Our psychological overload is replaced by the therapeutic effect of the wilderness. We are now in a natural space where tasks are simple, logical, necessary and above all physical. This is the sort of place where our forefathers hunted, collected food and accepted the accompanying risks. It's part of our biological birthright and we feel reinvigorated when we reclaim this natural inheritance.

One of the great challenges is to bag the bragging rights to the big four highest peaks of the UK and Ireland - Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike, Snowdon and our own Carrauntohill - and to complete them all within a calendar year.

Choose your time carefully and you won't need to be a Hillary or Bonnington. In fact, given some luck with the weather, all you need are boots, protective clothing and sufficient stamina to follow a marked route to each summit.

Snowdon

Snowdon has many routes but the best for a first ascent is probably the Pyg Track. It starts from the southeast corner of Pen-y-pas car park and wends its way upwards to Bwelch-y-Moch Col. Here it swings right and levels out for a while before zig-zagging to the heights of Bwelch-Glas, and joining an incongruous mountain railway for the push to the summit, which features a restaurant (open April to October). Descend by the same route getting down in about six hours walking time.

Getting there: Stena Line (www.stenaline.com) and Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.com) operate ferry services (three hours) and catamaran services (100 minutes) from Dublin and Dún Laoghaire to Holyhead. Snowdon is about one hour's drive from Holyhead.

Where to stay: Pamper yourself in the luxurious, Irish-owned, Celtic Royal Hotel, Caernarfon, tel 0044-1286/674477 which has a full leisure centre for post-climb relaxation. If you want accommodation among the mountains then the Pen-y-Gywrd Hotel, tel 0044-1286/870211, is just right. It is full of quaintness and character, and the bar is a virtual museum of climbing history.

Best time to climb: April/May - the snows are gone and ferry prices are good.

Scafell Pike

Start from the car park at the head of Wastwater near Wasdale Head. Follow the obvious track up the valley which eventually crosses a stream and continues relentlessly upwards through a grassy area between two streams, known as Brown Tongue. Eventually the slope eases and a line of cairns points a route (left) to Lingmill Col. Here another track is joined and the route swings right and upwards to the summit. On a clear day, mountains in Scotland, Wales and Ireland are breathtakingly visible at once. Return by the same route getting back down in just over five hours.

Getting there: With Ryanair direct Dublin to Blackpool and hire a car from the airport. Otherwise, take your car by Seacat or ferry from Dublin to Liverpool. Details at www.directferries.com

Where to stay: The ideally located Wasdale Head Inn, tel 0044-1946726229, offers good quality accommodation and is famous for its sumptuous evening dinners. Less expensive Brook House in nearby Eskdale, tel 0044 -1946723288, offers B&B with evening meal in very comfortable surrounds.

Best time to climb: May/June - less crowded and often the driest months.

Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis can be climbed with surprising ease between June and October, when the deep snows of winter have disappeared. Follow the Victorian pony track, which leads strenuously, but without other difficulties, from the Glen Nevis hostel (3km from Fort William) to the summit in about four hours. Return by the same route. Be careful, however, on your descent, since cliffs lie on the right and treacherous Five Finger Gully yawns hungrily on the left, ready to snare the unwary.

Getting there: Direct flight with Aer Lingus, Dublin to Glasgow. Ryanair flies from Dublin or Shannon to somewhat less convenient Prestwick. With your boarding card you can purchase a half price, return ticket from Glasgow to Fort William. This journey on the famous West Highland Railway takes almost four hours, but the stunning Highland scenery keeps boredom at bay.

Where to stay: Fort William offers plenty of accommodation, from bunkhouses to castles. Details from the visitor centre, tel 0044-1397703781. Ossian's, tel 0044-1397700857, on the main street offers basic en suite accommodation in a friendly atmosphere. The Travellers Inn, tel 0044 -13977037070, centrally located and recently built, offers room only, at competitive rates.

Best time to climb: September/ October, when the Glens are rich with colour and free from the notorious Scottish midge.

Carrauntohill

Leave Killarney by the N72. At Fossa go left for the Gap of Dunloe. Continue leaving the gap to the left until you see a sign (left) for Carrauntohill. This narrow road leads to a farmyard where you park for a small charge. Head up the glen following a track that eventually crosses a stream and joins another track. Soon a wide gully appears in the cliffs directly ahead.

This is the famous Devil's Ladder. Climb it with care, since it is heavily eroded, until you arrive at a grassy col. From here a cairned route leads (right) to the summit, which bears a large cross. In mist, carefully note the direction of your approach. Having sampled the stunning views, return by the same route. Be especially careful descending the Ladder. You should reach the farmyard after about seven hour's absence.

Getting there: By rail to Killarney, or direct flights from Manchester, London and Dublin to Kerry Airport.

Where to stay: Killarney has a huge volume of accommodation - details from Killarney Tourist Office, tel 064-31633. Inveraray Farm Guesthouse, surprisingly isn't in Scotland, but ideally located in the shadow of our highest mountains, 9km west of Killarney, tel 064-44224.

In sylvan surroundings, Castlerosse Hotel, has a full leisure centre, and views across Killarney's Lakes to Carrauntohill for diners. Packages available, tel 064-31144

Best time to climb: Anytime, April to October, that you have a good weather forecast

Peak condition Staying safe

• While climbing the Big Four may not be as dangerous as deep-sea-diving or indeed driving to work, it is still a risk activity - so remember the rules.

• First, improve your stamina and navigational skills with practice walks on lower mountains.

• Wear good boots with ankle support.

• Carry a map and compass, energy-giving food and drinks, extra waterproofs and warm clothing.

• Bring a mobile phone, but never totally rely on it

• If you have doubts about your fitness or the weather, turn back. The mountain will wait for a better day.