THOUGH there are simple columns of silk jersey in Richard Lewis's spring collection, the part that causes all the interest is an 18th-century carnival romp. Now that is fun. And modelled on Damon Sylvester, from New York, a floppy Harlequin patterned, tightly-belted shirt and tight trouser, is both witty and clever. Fortunately, the clothes look as good on women as this did on the beautiful black Damon.
Carnival clothes are not simple. Indeed they are curvaceous, fussy and much too feminine for comfort: costume for aspiring wenches, beautifully done, in soft pinks and blues. Busty and tightly corseted, with dribbling cuffs, and slit sarong skirts, or palazzo pants, this is Richard Lewis being carried away on a wave of high spirits and drama. It works because he knows just how far to go. But it is revealing in both senses. He has never been so frankly womanly before in his designs.
It becomes more courtly indeed very 18th-century courtly, when soft gold and ivory raw silk is used for full, knee-length coats, or very fitted short jackets worn with narrow trousers, and all the flutter of frilled cuffs and jabots. The corset belt, with its heavy, formidable lacing, is used throughout and was, apparently, "demanded" by his clients, who like a good clinch.
But the long, simple, silk jerseys, his all-time classics, are the opposite of all the theatrical whimsy. These shapely columns in black, navy or ivory, with long, tight sleeves and crescent-shaped necklines, which are associated with this designer, are likely to be remembered - and worn - long after the carnival is over: so discreet, and dignified, with not a bust or clinched waist in sight. Still is would be worthwhile having a place at court or to take part in the carnival frolics: so lively and amusing.
Jackets cost between £320 and £380, dresses from £390 to £475, and trousers and skirts about £120-£180. His studio is in 22 South Frederick Street, Dublin.