Noir desir: feasting on fashion's black magic

If the message from the autumn/winter collections in New York forecasted the return of black - as if it had ever gone away - …

If the message from the autumn/winter collections in New York forecasted the return of black - as if it had ever gone away - yesterday's shows in London often reinforced the point.

A dark Danish label called Noir, however, was one with a difference, even if the colours were sombre.

Designer Peter Ingwersen, formerly of Levis and Day Birger and Mikkelson, the well-known Danish clothing label, made a notable debut in London with a collection called The Raven Ball, accompanied by the Tiffin Boys' Choir from Kingston singing arrangements of pop songs. A sexy take on menswear with lots of black satin, black leather and variations on the suit, Noir had style and a certain nonchalant elegance.

There were black satin blouses with capes made from hair extensions, pencil skirts in steely leather with bolero or holster-style jackets.

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Among the sleek trouser suits was a dramatic tulle evening cape covered with iridescent cock feathers, destined for real birds of prey.

The company uses luxurious fabrics including its own organic Ugandan cotton brand called Illuminati, which uses Fair Trade principles and aims to give back percentages of clothing sales to African farmers.

Another Dane, Peter Jensen, called his collection Helena, after cosmetics queen Helena Rubenstein, and its bouffant hairdos and baby-doll dresses recalled the l960s. Models in bronze brocade drainpipes, well-mannered knits and neat hairbands looked like wealthy young debutantes showing off their jewellery.

Bows on empire-line dresses of brown organza or pleated chiffon added sweet touches, and tailoring - whether in green tweed or metallic pink lurex - was clean and impressive.

Pleats and frills appeared everywhere during London Fashion Week, but Jessica Ogden is a designer who knows how to control them.

Her beautifully crafted collection based on Lewis Carroll's photographs kept her colours to black, blue, grey and cream, concentrating on shape and textures created by pleating, tucking and gathering. Known for her love of craft, hers is a kind of edgy homespun, illustrated by a grey smock dress with roped and braided edging or shorts with ruffled belts.

Emma Cook's collection had a strong identity too with its black art deco prints on black jersey, slate-grey swing coats and lovely mirror-embroidered black dresses. London may not have the commercial cloud of other catwalk capitals, but this was a week with plenty to entice and excite the fashionable eye.