Leading Irish designers showed their collections at the launch of the new autumn/winter season at Kilkenny, in Nassau Street, Dublin. Grey is the new colour and, with few exceptions, the line is slim and spare.
With clothes so very sparse and detail non-existent, accessories have become important, and bags (by Orla Kiely), and unusual scarves very much a part of the new look. It could be said that there is little that is new, but there is enough change to make essential the buying of what is being shown. Black, of course, continues to be as important as ever.
Among the big names are Louise Kennedy and John Rocha. Kennedy is in her usual sophisticated form using a burgundy that is almost black for crepe coats with shot-silk lining, loose trousers, and a lang lace sweater. Her scarves are great fashion statements involving ruched silk and fine textured wools.
Rocha offers a black georgette skirt and tunic top, which teamed with Lainey Keogh's oversized and featherweight black knitted coat (£540 before you get excited) epitomises the simple but dynamic way dressing has gone.
New names here include Mary Gregory and Allicano. Allicano is particularly good as little devore separates: very attractive in a raspberry red and introducing what might well be the garment of the season, the "shrug", a long-sleeved knitted bolero.
Gregory, very big into grey, is using a felted wool for enveloping long coats, and loose, voluminous skirts that will keep the wearer snug.
Kilkenny also produces its own Art of Dressing range in which well-priced fine knits, in a wide choice of colours, are included. Ramsay is using classic shapes in corduroy, tweeds and leather, and Miriam Mone is ultra-smart in neatly-tailored grey dresses and coats, short and shapely.
While fashion is very subdued and pared down, the clever use of accessories can transform it into a look of great elegance: Kilkenny has all that it takes.