Egg Substitutes

Forget choc tactics. Here are a few things which the wine drinker closest to your heart (you?) might well prefer to a fancy Easter…

Forget choc tactics. Here are a few things which the wine drinker closest to your heart (you?) might well prefer to a fancy Easter egg. But no, these ritzy numbers can't be plundered for the competition!

White:

Argyrou Barrel-fermented Assyrtiko, Santorini 1998 (Oddbins, £9.99). Roll on, the Greek revolution! This is a really attractive wine, made from the topnotch local grape Assyrtiko, use of which is on the increase. Terms such as "oak-fermented" and "lees stirring" are beginning to make me blanch - too many trying-too-hard wines - but here the results are impressively subtle. Vines with an average age of 70-80 years can't do any harm . . .

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Wintzenheim, Alsace, 1997 (McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Deveneys, Dundrum; Vintry, Rathgar; Sweeneys, Dorset Street and Fairview; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Greenacres, Wexford and some other outlets; usually about £15). Even a Faberge egg wouldn't match this, in my estimation - and it's one of the humbler offerings from an Alsace perfectionist without peer. See Bottle of the Week.

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Red:

Pirineos Cabernet Merlot, Somontano, 1998 (Roches Stores and many SuperValus/Centras nationwide, £9.99). Here's a smart young Spanish offering that could show some Bordeaux producers a thing or two. Cabernet and Merlot don't always work such magic together for under a tenner. Soft, damsony flesh and plenty of succulence - but underneath, a very firm backbone makes for a long, chewy finish. It calls for meat.

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1997 (Superquinn; Duffys, SCR; Berry Bros, Harry Street; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Ashford Food and Wines, Ashford, Co Wicklow; Kellys Next Door, Longford; Old Stand, Mullingar and other outlets, usually £19.99). After re-tasting this cracker of a wine the message is that it has everything - heady perfume, masses of ripe, rich fruit, lingering spice and a mysterious glass-emptying mechanism. Grab it while you can.

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Feves, Chanson, 1996 (O'Briens Fine Wines, £22.45). Thibaut Marion-Chanson of the old Burgundy negociant family firm recently bought by Bollinger was in Dublin recently to unveil his latest wares. This is one of my favourites - an exquisitely elegant wine, immediately engaging yet understated. Delicate nuances and subtle power - that's good Burgundy for you.

Tawny Port

Chocolate - especially bitter chocolate - tastes terrific with tawny port. Warre's Otima 10-year-old Tawny Port (some SuperValus; Vintry, Rathgar; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Vineyard, Galway; Terry McCanns, Limerick, and some other outlets, 50cl bottle usually £13.99). This newcomer is aimed at a younger market and, I'd infer from the fact that it's lighter and sweeter than most tawnies, that women are part of the target. Still pleasant, with typical caramel and strawberry-vanilla tones. And a sensationally stylish bottle.

Ramos-Pinto Quinta da Ervamoira 10-year-old Tawny (Searsons, Monkstown; McCabes, Foxrock; about £20). This one may cost £6 more, but port aficionados will reckon it's worth it. Under a light cloak, there's extra power, extra firmness, and lovely, toasty length. Unwrap a slender bar of Valrhona with it, and you'll have created an event.