Teaching in Japan, where students bow at the staffroom door

I moved to Japan in 2011, initially for one year, to teach English as an assistant language teacher on the Japan Exchange and Teaching (Jet) programme. I had always wanted to live in a completely different culture and relished the challenge and the sense of the unknown. The push I needed was the lack of opportunities in Ireland. I did some research and the Jet programme appeared to be one of the best opportunities out there. And Japan seemed fascinating.

I find it hard to separate what I knew about Japan before I arrived and what I know now, three years later.

When I got my placement in Hyogo, I wondered, “Where’s Hi-yo-go?” After much Google-mapping I discovered it was in the Kansai region, and now I think Hyogo is the best place in Japan.

It was a great place to live: beautiful, lush countryside surrounded by paddyfields and views of Mount Rokko to the south. Bustling Osaka, relaxed Kobe and traditional Kyoto are all within reasonable distances. I taught at a senior high school (16-18 year olds) and I lived about five minutes’ walk away. I had a lovely little apartment and was placed in the same city as my boyfriend.

The first year was quite a steep learning curve, linguistically, socially and culturally.

I had no Japanese, and I recall people saying, “Oh you’ll pick it up, no bother”. That’s not how it transpired. You need to study Japanese very hard to understand it; you can’t just pick up a book and start reading it, like another European language. It takes hours of boring, repetitive study, but it’s worth sticking at it.

The first year was quite challenging as I couldn’t communicate well with teachers outside the English department. I broke through the barrier on a work night out: I used what Japanese I had learned and teachers were willing to use what English they knew. It’s amazing what a few beers can do. I improved and, after three years, passed the intermediate level Japanese exam.

I was shocked at the long working hours Japanese teachers have compared with Irish teachers. It’s very common for teachers to stay at school until 9pm doing club activities, extra classes with students, meeting parents or completing paperwork.

Teachers don’t get long summer holidays, and usually only take one week off in summer – often during the Obon festival, a traditional holiday in August. The rest of the summer involves extra tutoring, club activities or catching up with paperwork. One of my English teachers told me he felt guilty taking holidays because he felt it was his duty to contribute to society.

Japan seems to me to be a “live to work” rather than a “work to live” society. Luckily, the Jet programme is an exception, and I could use my 20 days annual leave as I liked, other than during term time.

Manners matter

In Japan, when you go into a convenience store you are greeted with a loud irasshaimase ("welcome") and the cashier will bow and thank you for your custom. Public transport is reliable, efficient and rarely breaks down; if it's a minute late they issue an apology. At the station there are English signs everywhere, so getting about is easy, and there are helpful staff on hand.

Once during the summer I felt dehydrated and faint at the train station. My friend told an employee, who brought me into the back to a cot and gave me water. I had a 10-minute nap.

It took a while to get used to the different social customs. The system of respect in Japan is based on age and social position, and language changes according to whom you are speaking. For example, in my school the principal was the highest rank, so with him you’d use the most formal Japanese. I was always conscious I’d offend somebody by speaking “impolite” Japanese.Taking off your shoes when entering a room or bowing when first meeting somebody became normal and second nature.

Japan has many different foods I had never heard of, some good, some not so good. I can't recall the exact moment I decided I liked red bean paste. I definitely remember thinking it was disgusting when I tried it first. The same for mochi. Natto, a fermented soy bean substance, is in the "never to be eaten again" category. Other weird and wonderful combinations of flavour include wasabi-flavoured crisps, hot dog and mayonnaise pizza, and blueberry Kit-Kats. The only Irish foods I sometimes craved were an Irish breakfast and mashed potato.

One of the best things about teaching in Japan was the students. In Ireland I don’t think you would ever describe 16- to 18-year-olds as cute. You just wouldn’t see an 18-year-old boy with a Hello Kitty teddy bear hanging off his school bag.

I loved their little “thank you” notes with cute stickers, the sweets from a trip somewhere, or the little cheer when I came into the classroom. (That didn’t always happen, but when it did it definitely made my day.) It was easy to become attached to students when they were so nice to me.

Compared to Irish schools, students’ appearance, discipline and respect for teacher were valued quite highly. Students had to keep their uniforms in good condition, couldn’t dye their hair, wear earrings or make-up. When entering the staff room, students would knock, bow, politely ask for the teacher, and bow again before leaving.

I was the assistant language teacher, so the main Japanese teacher of English was always in the class. I assisted by making games and activities based on the lesson. My job, basically, was to make English learning fun for the students, teach them about Irish culture and give the kids a chance to interact with a native English speaker.

Like a lot of other language assistants, I helped with the English Speaking Society, an after-school club mostly made up of girls. We watched English-language films, chatted about music, Ireland, their future plans. It was far more causal than in the class, and the quieter students’ personalities shone through.

I never had disciplinary problems or language issues. Despite my school being quite strict on discipline, I sometimes saw students fall asleep in class.

Elective English

My third year in Japan was my best for connecting with students. I taught many classes, but I had a group of nine students who I taught five times a week. They were members of the international course and each took all the elective English modules.

Japan is a wonderful mix of modern and traditional. With 20 days holidays plus 16 Japanese national holidays, I had time to explore the country. The countryside is stunning. The cities are hectic and crowded.

Some of the things that I will miss about Japan: 100 yen (70 cent) stores, sushi, okonomiyaki (a savoury pancake), umeshu (a plum wine), heated toilet seats, vending machines everywhere, and fantastic transport. And there are definitely some things I won't miss: those awful, bitter winters come to mind. One morning my curtain was actually frozen onto the window.

The Jet programme offers a wonderful chance to travel, broaden your mind, learn new skills, live in a different culture, represent Ireland, teach and contribute to a community. It is up to each individual to make the most of the experience.

Applications for the next Japan Exchange and Teaching programme close on December 5th. Details can be downloaded from the culture and education section of Ireland’s Japanese Embassy website: .ie.emb-japan.go.jp

Catherine Lovett is the Jet programme co-ordinator in Ireland