IF the theory that the New spear heading a Riesling revival holds any weight at all, then what's needed here is a classy Australian example to back it up not because the New World is better than the old at handling the grand old grape, oh dear, me no, but simply as an indication of the way the trade winds are blowing.
Start the process of reappraisal with a bottle of Heggies Riesling 1994 (outlets above, about £8.99) a wine that performs the tightrope fruit and acidity act like a star. Then it's time to tackle the tall bottles from nearer home and the tongue twister names.