SUDDENLY it's summer. Like woolly cardigans, warming red wines are relegated to second place - something to pick up later in the evening - while cool whites stand out in front, enjoying their brief season in the sun. if you feel like a change from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, try the splendidly refreshing Portuguese white Monte Velho 1995 (Molloys, Superquinn, Redmonds, Jus de Vine and other outlets, £4.99).